The Visionaries 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Goss, Horn, Broderick |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Oct 14, 2003 |
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1st pitch
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Description This route is the 2nd route from the right side of the cliff. It is about 75ft to the left of Sticky Revelations. This is another great outing on good varnish edges. The first pitch is 145ft long with 12 bolts (5.9+). A mid way station is in place for a short pitch and for rapping. The 2nd pitch follows a short crack to more varnished edges. (5.10c) Rap the rope with one rope.
Protection draws...
| Comments on The Visionaries |
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By Teleman From: Steamboat Springs, CO Apr 12, 2006
| The first pitch is classic beautiful Prophecy Wall face climbing. P2 is worth doing. A few crack moves, but not much crack. If you are solid 10 leader you could lead it with only a couple of draws, but would recommend taking a couple of cams in the Metolius .5-1 range. |
By triznuty From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 11, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| This is a wonderful route and a classic for the area. The first pitch is nice and long (145ft). Don't miss the last pitch. Sports a nice little finger crack (not much crack) to a little chimney on the side of a roof. I lead the last pitch safely with out any additional gear. It's protected relatively well with 4 bolts. But falling from some spots would probably result in a ledge smack. 3 rappels get you back down to the bottom of this route (there is a rap station half up p1). |
By jtwalter From: Orem, UT Nov 4, 2007 rating: 5.9+
| The first pitch of The Visionaries is about as good as it gets on this wall--very fun climbing with a moderate grade. I didn't think the second pitch of this route was .10c. Seemed more like a 9+, if that hard. While the moves were awkward, they weren't difficult at all. We didn't use any additional gear either. The four existing bolts seemed adequate. Our rope got stuck twice at the top of the second pitch when we were trying to rappel--once in the rock and once it was pinched in the chains. The rock at the top of this rappel can easily snag a rope. |
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| Ditto on the second pitch. No harder than 5.10a. Certainly not 5.10c. No additional pro seems necessary as the bolts (4) protect the cruxes pretty well and off the deck, the moves are fairly solid. |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Nov 10, 2009 rating: 5.10a
| We did a couple of newer climbs to the right of Visionairies starting from a ledge a pitch up. The left one we did went through a roof and we stopped at the treed ledge. The one to the right of that traversed left onto an arete and then a thin face above an anchor. Anybody now anything about these? Both were enjoyable. |
By Ryan Henderson From: Pleasant View, UT Nov 6, 2012 rating: 5.10c
| Note: I'm basing my ratings off of a comparison to "Conditional Bliss" (5.10a) This lead was a tough one. If you're just starting on 5.9 leads, I do not recommend leading the first pitch. It was heady for my 5.10 lead self. On the first pitch, once you pass the rap anchors, it gets run out, thin, and vertical (I also had a bit of wind)! I'd say 5.10a/b climbing for sure. Definitely as hard or harder then Conditional Bliss. The "crack" at the top is not much of crack. There's 2-3 spots where it's wide enough to fit your fingers, but basically I just used it as a stemming feature. I thought this section was also pretty rough. I had to clip off of a finger lock. So I'd rate this a 5.10c. Gear isn't really necessary, as the crack is so tiny you'd only be placing very small C3's. Additionally, the ledge you start on for this second pitch is massive. Get that second bolt and you're safe. |
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