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Prophesy Wall
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Book of Prophesy Var., The T 
Breaking the Sabbath S 
Caging the Zealot S 
Conditional Bliss S 
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 
Equanimity S 
Gordian Knot S 
Grumpy Old Men S 
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Ship of Fools S 
Soffit of Jericho, The S 
Softscrub TR 
Sticky Revelations S 
Technical Knee-Highs S 
Thieves Karma S 
Unknown S 
Visionaries, The S 
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 
Wooden Hammer T 

The Visionaries 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Goss, Horn, Broderick
Page Views: 1,887
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 14, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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1st pitch

Description 

This route is the 2nd route from the right side of the cliff. It is about 75ft to the left of Sticky Revelations. This is another great outing on good varnish edges. The first pitch is 145ft long with 12 bolts (5.9+). A mid way station is in place for a short pitch and for rapping. The 2nd pitch follows a short crack to more varnished edges. (5.10c)

Rap the rope with one rope.

Protection 

draws...


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By Teleman
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
Apr 12, 2006

The first pitch is classic beautiful Prophecy Wall face climbing. P2 is worth doing. A few crack moves, but not much crack. If you are solid 10 leader you could lead it with only a couple of draws, but would recommend taking a couple of cams in the Metolius .5-1 range.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 11, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a wonderful route and a classic for the area. The first pitch is nice and long (145ft). Don't miss the last pitch. Sports a nice little finger crack (not much crack) to a little chimney on the side of a roof. I lead the last pitch safely with out any additional gear. It's protected relatively well with 4 bolts. But falling from some spots would probably result in a ledge smack. 3 rappels get you back down to the bottom of this route (there is a rap station half up p1).
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The first pitch of The Visionaries is about as good as it gets on this wall--very fun climbing with a moderate grade. I didn't think the second pitch of this route was .10c. Seemed more like a 9+, if that hard. While the moves were awkward, they weren't difficult at all. We didn't use any additional gear either. The four existing bolts seemed adequate.

Our rope got stuck twice at the top of the second pitch when we were trying to rappel--once in the rock and once it was pinched in the chains. The rock at the top of this rappel can easily snag a rope.
By Brian in SLC
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Ditto on the second pitch. No harder than 5.10a. Certainly not 5.10c. No additional pro seems necessary as the bolts (4) protect the cruxes pretty well and off the deck, the moves are fairly solid.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 10, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

We did a couple of newer climbs to the right of Visionairies starting from a ledge a pitch up. The left one we did went through a roof and we stopped at the treed ledge. The one to the right of that traversed left onto an arete and then a thin face above an anchor.

Anybody now anything about these? Both were enjoyable.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Note: I'm basing my ratings off of a comparison to "Conditional Bliss" (5.10a)

This lead was a tough one. If you're just starting on 5.9 leads, I do not recommend leading the first pitch. It was heady for my 5.10 lead self. On the first pitch, once you pass the rap anchors, it gets run out, thin, and vertical (I also had a bit of wind)! I'd say 5.10a/b climbing for sure. Definitely as hard or harder then Conditional Bliss.

The "crack" at the top is not much of crack. There's 2-3 spots where it's wide enough to fit your fingers, but basically I just used it as a stemming feature. I thought this section was also pretty rough. I had to clip off of a finger lock. So I'd rate this a 5.10c. Gear isn't really necessary, as the crack is so tiny you'd only be placing very small C3's. Additionally, the ledge you start on for this second pitch is massive. Get that second bolt and you're safe.
By Megan Henderson
From: Ogden, Utah
Jul 10, 2013

I lead P1 up until the rap anchors. My biggest issue was every single bolt was about 6 inches too high for me to reach from the natural clipping spot! I'm 5'3" and whoever bolted this route did not have shorter leaders in mind.