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Starvard Rock S.P. Ice Climbing
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The Virgin 

WI5

   
Type:  TR, Ice
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: Ed Mank
Page Views: 1,225
Submitted By: sunder on Jan 22, 2010

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More climbers put their hands on The Virgin this w...

Description 

Fang in Wildcat Canyon on the left... Don't know if this was ever climbed before.

Location 

Wilcat Canyon

Protection 

TR


Photos of The Virgin Slideshow Add Photo
Dirty Virgin on Feb.18th, 2010. Best stable condit...
Dirty Virgin on Feb.18th, 2010. Best stable condit...
The 'fang' of Wildcat is actually the Dirty Virgin...
The 'fang' of Wildcat is actually the Dirty Virgin...
The Virgin on 2-25-10, from the backside of 'tube'...
The Virgin on 2-25-10, from the backside of 'tube'...
Dirty Virgin' ice route in Wildcat Canyon.
Dirty Virgin' ice route in Wildcat Canyon.
Jan 9 2010 Wildcat Fange
Jan 9 2010 Wildcat Fange
Left side of Wildcat; ice known as the Dirty Virgi...
Left side of Wildcat; ice known as the Dirty Virgi...
Taken on 2/21/10, VERY wet!
Taken on 2/21/10, VERY wet!
The Dirty Virgin on Feb 18th
The Dirty Virgin on Feb 18th
Creative approach to climbing the Virgin in Wildca...
Creative approach to climbing the Virgin in Wildca...
Virgin gets dirty today.
Virgin gets dirty today.
Virgin to the left, Wildcat on the right
BETA PHOTO: Virgin to the left, Wildcat on the right

Comments on The Virgin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 25, 2010

This climb first was seen touching down back in early 80's, and called 'The Virgin' back then. Usually falls down just about when it starts getting fat enough to try....thus the name. Someone claimed to have climbed it during the 09' season but I doubt that very much.
By Alex A
Feb 17, 2010

FYI, it has been climbed TR, in the 90's, I climbed it, Ed Mank climbed it first, FA? it did not touch the ground, require a couple of one arm pull ups, and lock offs, easy for Ed, he's very strong, it was down 2 weeks later, I've seen it form two times in 30yrs in the early 80's and 90's,
By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 20, 2010

Have only seen it delicately form a couple times over last 30 years. Rumor says someone climbed the whole thing in last 10 years but I've never seen a photo or heard a name or date until these posts. I was lowered down from the top to play on it once, but it was only a top curtain back then, and not close to being safe. My guess is this Jan/Feb formation in 2010 is seeing the first numerous repeats since the dateless first ascent. It comes in as second highest 'legal' climb in the park right now, at about 80 ft or so. Has held my interest (lust, desire) for many many years.
By Tradoholic
Feb 22, 2010

This thing was VERY wet on 2/21/10. I see it is rare to come in and I'm glad I got on it even though it was more like swimming ;)
By Alex A
Feb 22, 2010

Wow, looks like the best shape ever, one of the these rare yrs, like when a fang formed at Ottawa Canyon, in the 80's
By Leo Hski
Apr 6, 2010

I think Tom Coleman did this in the 80's- it didn't quite touch the ground so there was some rock move or two to start then transition onto the ice.
By VBound
Dec 21, 2010

I climbed this many times in either 02 or 03. It was a fantastic
year for it. It had a rope on it for several weeks straight. It was
even led a few times until the column broke near the top and tilted
against the rock. In great years you also have a fantastic curtain
you can traverse to from about 3/4 of the way up.

By the way, stop by the old Starved Rock outfitters store and Tom
or Mark can give you a full history of the formation. It was climbed
many many years before the 80's.

Cheers.