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Virgin, The 
Wedunett 

The Virgin 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lee Harrell, 1967, FFA: Paul Gleason, Phil Gleason & Keith Leaman, 1967
Page Views: 724
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 20, 2007
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Paul and Phil Gleason and I did the FFA in ca 1967...

Description 

This seldom done climb is among the harder offerings at Big Rock but is an unknown obscurity to most. Despite it's rating the climbing is mostly moderate in difficulty with a brief and reasonably well protected crux.

Starts at the base of The Trough and follows an obvious diagonal weakness up and left as it slashes across the main face of Big Rock. Reasonably well protected, with the crux smears coming near the end, at a steep section where it joins the route Giant Step. Once past the crux continue up past the last bolt of Giant Step to anchors. An easy walk-off exists down the left margin of the face.


Protection 

7 bolts, anchors



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I remember the crux bolt of Giant Step having been simply a smaller size stud, sans the hanger. One might have to sling a nut around it if it hasn't been replaced (since the 90s when I did these). This is definately a neat route.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 20, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

They should call this route (final test) after you lead this it time to leave big rock behind.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 26, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Wonderful thin slab and friction moves on this left trending line. As Chris indicated in the description, begin near the Trough and follow the faint seam that diagonals up and left. Bruce....my understanding is that the name is derived from the smallish, tightness of the seam/crack that The Virgin follows, but maybe Keith Leaman could shed more light on that fact. And wouldn't English Hanging Garden be the final test?

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Hey Chris....time for an FA update. Per Keith Leaman's comments on his photo...
FA: Lee Harrell (1967)
FFA: Paul & Phil Gleason and Keith Leaman (1967)