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Narrows Proper
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Art of Breaking, The 
Cantaloupe 
Cement Garden, The 
Chiroptophobia 
Choss Ninja 
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Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack 
Other People's Crack 
People's Crack 
PWTHFRWDLGS 
Red Faction 
Screwheads 
Sloppy Seconds 
Snap, Crackle, Pop 
Village Idiot, The 
Unsorted Routes:

The Village Idiot 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 4, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The Village Idiot is a great long route with outstanding rock and a diversity of moves. The route features two distinct and different cruxes.

Begin the route behind the tree, starting in some dirtier, broken rock to gain access to the sweet plaque of granite above where a couple of excellent splitters cut the face.

At the top of this face, traverse right to the first crux, a section of face climbing protected by four bolts. This first crux features powerful moves and steep climbing and takes you to the base of the prominent, left-facing dihedral.

Once in the dihedral, plug some gear and clip a fixed pin before coming to the second crux. There is now a lower anchor before the second crux for those who don't care to climb around the sharp arete.

The second crux features awkward, technical movement to ascend the dihedral before traversing right, out of the dihedral, around the arete and on to the face above. A couple of bolts in the dihedral protect the crux, while a couple of bolts on the face finish it off.

Enjoy, I think it's one of the best routes at the Narrows.


Location 

This is the second route on your left when you enter the Notch. It starts behind the tall tree in the Notch just left of the start of The Cement Garden.


Protection 

Eight bolts, one fixed pin, and a selection of cams from tiny to gold Camalot. A 70-meter rope is required to descend, and it's a rope stretcher so tie a knot in the end of your rope!



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By david goldstein
Jul 8, 2008

Doesn't quite justify the rave it receives in the 2008 Rifle guide, primarily due to a loose jug near the start of the lower crux. The upper half is pretty good and will improve with traffic and buffing.

I recommend puting a full length runner on the bolt to the right of the arete in order to keep the rope from running over the fairly sharp edge.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 8, 2008

While it may be loose, an endless amount of prying, wiggling, hammering and cajoling couldn't get that jug to go anywhere. Hopefully one loose hold on a 115 foot climb doesn't wreck the whole thing.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

This is a fun route with some good movement, but 11+? I think 11- is more like it. It's a little intimidating on lead for the first time, but every time I got to a section that looked like it was going to be tough I just found more good holds or stemming. Clipping the sixth bolt seemed like the hardest part to me, since it's a blind clip around the arete. Maybe I went right out of the corner too soon, but if so, then the top of this route is very contrived.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Maybe some new holds showed up. This is the Narrows, after all, the climbs do change from year to year with the freeze-thaw process. ;-)

Also, the anchor has been lowered for those who are uncomfortable with their rope running over the super sharp arete while climbing the top of the route.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 17, 2010

I agree, this route probably doesn't deserve the 11+ rating. As is apt on new routes, they clean up, get some chalk on the holds and easier sequences are figured out; hence, the rating tends to settle out, in this case more in the 11 or 11- range (I'll change the rating, because I don't care to squabble over ratings, and it seems like a community consensus is best anyway). Originally I climbed higher up the corner before reaching around the arete, which is harder (or more awkward at least) than the preferred exit out of the corner down lower, which is much easier, in my opinion. I hope it's not too contrived but just a case of figuring out a better way of climbing something, even if it takes a couple years to do so.

As BJ mentioned, there is now a lower anchor so if you don't feel comfortable leading around the sharp arete you can clip the lower anchor and call it good.

By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 28, 2013

I realized too late (as wife pulled rope) I think you can TR this line after leading Jenga Buttress Crack, if you like me weren't feeling sparky enough to lead it. Just a thought, 'cause, man, did this line look good!