The Vigil 5.11 R
| 1,867 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 10 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Dave Jones & Conrad Anker, May 1992 |
| Season: | Spring & Fall |
| Submitted By: | bsmoot on Mar 4, 2008 |
| |
The Vigil, photo - Dave Jones
Add Photo Printer View
Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Starts in a 7" crack & follows various sizes of cracks, face & chimney climbing to the top in 10 pitches. There is a good ledge (bivy) at mid height. This is an outstanding route, with some sporty face climbing. Topo available at visitors center. Probably the best route on The Watchman. Descent: Hike off or rap route.
Location Starts at the left third of the West face of The Watchman, in the 2nd major crack system left of a prominent, left-facing corner. See photo.
Protection - One set of R.P's & nuts to 1"
- Three to four sets of cams to #4 camalot
- Two extra #3 & #4 friends
By roxclamantis Mar 5, 2008
| My advice would be to not even consider hiking off this route. The raps are very straightforward with no rope snag problems and great ledges/stances at each station. |
By bsmoot Mar 7, 2008
| But Roxy... What if climbers want the FULL VALUE Zion experience??? If so, hike off the back. |
By Colin Moorhead May 5, 2010 rating: 5.11 R
| Found this to be an excellent, adventurous route. Classic in a different way then say Shunes or Monkeyfinger. Some comments to add to the supertopos rather vague description. Rack Used. Double set of cams from tiny to #4 BD, one #5 and #6 BD, full set of wires including a couple RP's. I really could have used one extra .75 and 4 BD. Pitch 1. 5.10a, The only pitch I used the 6" cam (it was nice to have) Pitch 2. 5.9 Pitch 3. 5.10c Pitch 4&5. 5.10c R, tricky route finding. Climb crack off belay for 20', step right into face crack, climb until bushes then step right and slightly down to well camoflauged bolt, straight up with some runout but straightforward climbing, protects with large cams. I linked into the base of pitch 6 in 60 meters. Pitch 6&7. 5.11b, Inadvertantly linked these two in a 59.5 meter rope stretcher, the intermediate belay is inobvious and would be cramped and akward. This link made for one of the best 5.11 crack pitches I've done in the desert. 3 .75 and 3 #4 camalots (save at least one #4 for the end) Pitch 8&9. 5.9, Easily linked. Less intimidating than it first appears. Pitch 10. 5.11c R, It ain't over till it's over. Bolted slab, climbing stays hard well above the 2nd bolt, hard to say if you'd clip a ledge falling off the final, tenuous moves. Rappel descent is relatively straight forward if you make it to the top, rappelling down the climb from anywhere above the 5th pitch would be tricky. |
By Rob Duncan From: Salt Lake City Nov 1, 2010 rating: 5.11 PG13
| It might be good to watch your ropes a bit on the raps, we had a few snags especially up top. chimney pitch is crazy! |
By roxclamantis May 24, 2011
| Mark Austin and I got up to two pitches from the top (base of chimney pitch) on a first attempt, ultimately descending and drilling rap anchors by a rapidly dying headlamp -- we were laughing the whole way up and the whole way down. Returning with Conrad, I found the sketchy run-out free variation (Mark and I having partially aided a corner pitch to the left) and, bivying on 'Violation Ledge', we casually pushed the route to the top. |
By Trevor From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Sep 11, 2011
| so roxclamantis...did you or conrad take the "chimney" pitch? after you exit the easy initial part? in hindsight, i started up the right way, but backed down cause i was thinking this cant be the right way?!?!?! instead, i ended up climbing some of the most rotten rock i've encountered in zion to the climber's right against the main wall in the corner. after a couple moves, i was committed and backing down was not an option even though i knew i was off route by this time... i do not recommend this variation...but it's likely only zion 5.9+. |
By roxclamantis Dec 20, 2011
| The chimney pitch was Conrad's lead as I had just led the prior pitch. One of those classic 'much easier than it looks' chimney's that, I agree, looks terrifying from the bottom. |
|