The cruxes to this route are following the second pitch and the lasso at the beginning of the fourth. Each pitch is fairly short, yet have great features and moves. The nailing is straightforward and cams appear every couple of placements. The third pitch gets thin, with multiple tied off blades. Every belay has new (2009) bolts along with every lead bolt.
This route is located on the right side of the fin high above Altered States Gully. Approach as for the Dorsal Fin, then do a 5.6 pitch which angles up then right for a full rope length. Some simi-climbing is needed to reach the chain anchor for The Gills. The first pitch starts to the left (west) of the chain anchor. This is the short bulge crack (8') that traverses left (west) to a bush.
-One set of hand sized cams (Black diamond .75-3)
-Two sets of t.c.u.'s (Metolius purple, blue, yellow)
-One orange metolius cam, One red metolius cam.
-One set of HB Brass off-sets.
-Some medium stoppers.
-An assortment of blades, (we used about ten)
-An assortment of lost arrows (we used about six)
-A few beaks or Rurps (we used two beaks)
-Bunches of slings
-A copy of the topo
Jonathan drilling (above a ledge) on the epic 5th ...
|By Stevie Nacho|
Jun 28, 2009
The bolts are all new as of 2009, but there are a few old bolts in which we couldn't remove. Please take the necessary tools to "yank" these and patch the old holes.
Kudos to the Smoot brothers for the lasso on the fourth pitch. I'm sure it will remain one of my most mememorable moments in that canyon. It makes me want to go climb Nob Job.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b A2-3
A wonderful route to train for a big aid climb in Yosemite. The crux is the second person cleaning the traverse over the big roof. Also - the old guide never mentioned the lasso of the nob - a solution you MUST recognize to succeed on the route. Great route.
|By Stevie Nacho|
Nov 25, 2012
Still one of my favorite routes in this canyon. Can't wait to come back.