The Velvet Tongue
|1,856 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.12+ [details]|
|FA: ||FFA Jerry Handren and ?|
|Season: ||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Submitted By: ||j wharton on Mar 30, 2010|
P4 of Velvet Tongue.
This route, along with Jet Stream, is one of the best routes I have climbed recently--bizarre, technical, and intricate. Be prepared to scratch your head a bit. Check out Jerry Handren's new guide for some great photos of unhearlded local badass Tom Moulin on pitches 4 and 5. Begin with the first 3 pitches of Texas Tower Direct(described elsewhere on Mtn. Project), which gains the base of the obvious left facing corner. P4: A small piece or two gains the first bolt, and then it's all bolts from there. Lots of 5.12 bits, but definitive cruxes leaving the corner at the first bolt, and regaining the corner 20' above. P5: A short pitch. Boulder off the belay to gain a cool traverse left along the lip of the roof. Pop over, and climb easily up to the belay. P6: Didn't climb this bit, but apparently a short .11+ traverse leads right into the last pitch of Texas Tower Direct.
On Texas Tower, to the right of the Epinephrine chimneys.
Lots of draws (especially for pitch 3 of TTD), and a single set of cams to 3 inches. You can make do with a little less if you're so inclined. NOTE: if you rap with a single 70 you will be forced to down solo some delicate 5.8 to get to the anchor above pitch one, so a tag line isn't a bad idea.
|Comments on The Velvet Tongue
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 5, 2010
The crux getting back into the corner is unlike anything I've ever experienced climbing before. Truly unique and super rad, though really really perplexing. I can't even rate the move as there's not really power to it or anything, just really weird. Again, super unique and very fun. There's also a bolt in your chest so the fall is nothing.
|By Kevin Volkening|
Mar 18, 2012
Amazing route in a spectacular setting. This baby barely goes! I agree that getting back to the corner was one of the crazier moves I've ever attempted, but I think the moves leaving the corner could be even harder. In my case I settled more like on a move rather than "moves". Any idea if the lateral dyno was the right mindset?
Apr 9, 2012
Getting back INTO the corner was weird and difficult, but getting OUT of the corner, that was hard as nails! This route is awesome!