Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Black Velvet Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) 
Ancient Futures 
Cutting Edge 
Dream of Wild Turkeys 
Epinephrine 
Fiddler on the Roof 
Gobbler, The 
I'm Not Worthy 
Johnny Come Lately 
Lone Star 
My Little Pony 
Overhanging Hangover 
Prince of Darkness 
Refried Brains 
Rock Warrior 
Sandstone Samurai 
Smooth as Silk 
Sour Mash 
Spark Plug 
Steel Monkey 
Texanephrine 
Texas Hold 'Em 
Texas Tower Direct 
Velveeta 
Velvet Tongue, The 
Yellow Brick Road 

The Velvet Tongue 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA Jerry Handren and ?
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 2,830
Submitted By: j wharton on Mar 30, 2010
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
P4 of Velvet Tongue.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route, along with Jet Stream, is one of the best routes I have climbed recently--bizarre, technical, and intricate. Be prepared to scratch your head a bit. Check out Jerry Handren's new guide for some great photos of unhearlded local badass Tom Moulin on pitches 4 and 5. Begin with the first 3 pitches of Texas Tower Direct(described elsewhere on Mtn. Project), which gains the base of the obvious left facing corner. P4: A small piece or two gains the first bolt, and then it's all bolts from there. Lots of 5.12 bits, but definitive cruxes leaving the corner at the first bolt, and regaining the corner 20' above. P5: A short pitch. Boulder off the belay to gain a cool traverse left along the lip of the roof. Pop over, and climb easily up to the belay. P6: Didn't climb this bit, but apparently a short .11+ traverse leads right into the last pitch of Texas Tower Direct.


Location 

On Texas Tower, to the right of the Epinephrine chimneys.


Protection 

Lots of draws (especially for pitch 3 of TTD), and a single set of cams to 3 inches. You can make do with a little less if you're so inclined. NOTE: if you rap with a single 70 you will be forced to down solo some delicate 5.8 to get to the anchor above pitch one, so a tag line isn't a bad idea.



Photos of The Velvet Tongue Slideshow Add Photo
All time pitch!
All time pitch!
Comments on The Velvet Tongue Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 5, 2010

The crux getting back into the corner is unlike anything I've ever experienced climbing before. Truly unique and super rad, though really really perplexing. I can't even rate the move as there's not really power to it or anything, just really weird. Again, super unique and very fun. There's also a bolt in your chest so the fall is nothing.

By Kevin Volkening
Mar 18, 2012

Amazing route in a spectacular setting. This baby barely goes! I agree that getting back to the corner was one of the crazier moves I've ever attempted, but I think the moves leaving the corner could be even harder. In my case I settled more like on a move rather than "moves". Any idea if the lateral dyno was the right mindset?

By blakeherrington
Apr 9, 2012

Getting back INTO the corner was weird and difficult, but getting OUT of the corner, that was hard as nails! This route is awesome!