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Velvet Hammer, The 

The Velvet Hammer 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jesse Zacher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2012
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Description 

This is a continuous crack system that goes the height of the left side of Quarry Wall. It climbs ledge to ledge.

Pitch 1: from the ledge, climb some nebulous terrain until the obvious crack cuts up towards a large triangle ledge. This is a good warm-up for what's to come. 5.10, 60 feet, bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: set sail up the corner with fingers and stemming up past a few steep sections. Gain a good ledge on the right below a short roof. Do some intricate stemming and an arm bar to reach a positive hold. More 5.10 climbing leads to a last rest 20 feet below the obvious undercling crux. Motor up to the undercling, reach high, and place/clip a small nut before making some tough moves to regain the corner. From here, it's 5.10 to the top! 180 feet, 5.11+, bolted anchor.


Location 

This route is best accessed by rapping in from the top. Head up Divide Road until you are the top of the cliff line. Pull-off at the first large open area. Look for a large cairn by the cliff. It may take some searching to find the bolts that are 3-4 feet below the top. It is a double rope rap to the top of the 1st pitch. It is a single rap to start the first.


Protection 

Double set from 0.3-0.75. Double #3s, single #1, #2, and a sub 0.3 piece. A full set of nuts! There are anchors at the top of the first and second pitch.



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By Bryan K.
From: Palisade, CO
Apr 18, 2012

Another classic Zacher 11+. Will get only better with some traffic. If you're climbing the grade, this is a must do. Best approach in the entire canyon!

By rob pizem
May 1, 2012

Very fun route! Great job, Jesse. Sorry I missed the send!

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Apr 26, 2013

You may want more than the listed gear if OS'ing. Great route, that is unfortunately a natural drainage for the area and seems like it'll be perpetually dirty.

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 26, 2013

If cleaned after spring thaw, it stays good until a large rain event or the winter. You should get on the Bachelor Party Beagle.