The Velvet Hammer  5.11+

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Jesse Zacher New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jesse Zacher on Apr 18, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The sweet corner. Yellow Xs mark the start of the ...

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Description 

This is a continuous crack system that goes the height of the left side of Quarry Wall. It climbs ledge to ledge.

Pitch 1: from the ledge, climb some nebulous terrain until the obvious crack cuts up towards a large triangle ledge. This is a good warm-up for what's to come. 5.10, 60 feet, bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: set sail up the corner with fingers and stemming up past a few steep sections. Gain a good ledge on the right below a short roof. Do some intricate stemming and an arm bar to reach a positive hold. More 5.10 climbing leads to a last rest 20 feet below the obvious undercling crux. Motor up to the undercling, reach high, and place/clip a small nut before making some tough moves to regain the corner. From here, it's 5.10 to the top! 180 feet, 5.11+, bolted anchor.

Location 

This route is best accessed by rapping in from the top. Head up Divide Road until you are the top of the cliff line. Pull-off at the first large open area. Look for a large cairn by the cliff. It may take some searching to find the bolts that are 3-4 feet below the top. It is a double rope rap to the top of the 1st pitch. It is a single rap to start the first.

Protection 

Double set from 0.3-0.75. Double #3s, single #1, #2, and a sub 0.3 piece. A full set of nuts! There are anchors at the top of the first and second pitch.

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Topo of Velvet Hammer and Bachelor Party.