The Velvet Hammer
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The sweet corner. Yellow Xs mark the start of the ...
This is a continuous crack system that goes the height of the left side of Quarry Wall. It climbs ledge to ledge.
Pitch 1: from the ledge, climb some nebulous terrain until the obvious crack cuts up towards a large triangle ledge. This is a good warm-up for what's to come. 5.10, 60 feet, bolted anchor.
Pitch 2: set sail up the corner with fingers and stemming up past a few steep sections. Gain a good ledge on the right below a short roof. Do some intricate stemming and an arm bar to reach a positive hold. More 5.10 climbing leads to a last rest 20 feet below the obvious undercling crux. Motor up to the undercling, reach high, and place/clip a small nut before making some tough moves to regain the corner. From here, it's 5.10 to the top! 180 feet, 5.11+, bolted anchor.
This route is best accessed by rapping in from the top. Head up Divide Road until you are the top of the cliff line. Pull-off at the first large open area. Look for a large cairn by the cliff. It may take some searching to find the bolts that are 3-4 feet below the top. It is a double rope rap to the top of the 1st pitch. It is a single rap to start the first.
Double set from 0.3-0.75. Double #3s, single #1, #2, and a sub 0.3 piece. A full set of nuts! There are anchors at the top of the first and second pitch.
Topo of Velvet Hammer and Bachelor Party.
|Comments on The Velvet Hammer
|By Bryan K.|
From: Palisade, CO
Apr 18, 2012
Another classic Zacher 11+. Will get only better with some traffic. If you're climbing the grade, this is a must do. Best approach in the entire canyon!
|By rob pizem|
May 1, 2012
Very fun route! Great job, Jesse. Sorry I missed the send!
|By Bryan Gilmore|
From: Your Mama
Apr 26, 2013
You may want more than the listed gear if OS'ing. Great route, that is unfortunately a natural drainage for the area and seems like it'll be perpetually dirty.
|By Jesse Zacher|
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 26, 2013
If cleaned after spring thaw, it stays good until a large rain event or the winter. You should get on the Bachelor Party Beagle.