The Vampire 

The must do route of the Idyllwild area and perhaps the best climb of it's grade in all of Southern California. Don't pass this one by as it's not as challenging as appearances might suggest.

Some additional comments:

P1) By all means do the direct start as it adds a bit more quality crack climbing and doesn't bump the difficulty up any. This is a long and somewhat strenuous pitch that, unlike pitches 2 and 3, requires more endurance than anything. Pitches 2 & 3 are mostly moderate climbing with a boulder problem thrown into the mix.

P2) The move left off the belay, where you're reaching to the flake system, is somewhat reachy and always seems a bit odd; once the flake is reached it's 5.9 liebacking and unbelievably amazing considering the location on the West Face Bulge.

P3) Moving past the bolt is a boulder problem and the hardest move on the entire climb (imo). Once past the bolt the climbing eases and it's a romp to the top.

Also, it's possible to rap from the bolts atop pitch 2 (left of the flake) to the bolts on Vampire Ledge with a single 60 meter rope. Don't try this with anything less than a 60m rope as it's almost exactly 100' to the ledge. Perhaps useful to know if the afternoon T-storms catch you off guard.

I must confess that The Bat Crack is the hardest pitch for me, my power to weight ratio sucks, so I'm usually a little fried when I get to the bolt, in that state it doesn't matter how good the holds are. I agree that technically P3 is the trickiest. I took a huge fall from there once, fell from the diagonal crack past the crux trying to fumble a piece in below me - what a chicken.

Climbing as in life, can really boil down to humility. In this sport, there are no chickens...

I like the direct finish:
Instead of traversing right at the bolt on P3, continue along the flake -- which progressively becomes more delicate. The climbing is less bouldery and more continuous. Also, the anchors you then reach allow you to rap your way down to the base of the Vampire with a 60m rope.

I find it sand-bagged for 5.11a; I would recommend being a solid 5.11 climber before doing it -- so you can actually enjoy climbing it.

Personally, I find the bat crack to be over-rated. Granted, it's a beautiful line, but it is slippery and full of... bat crap.

Also, to my knowledge the only clean rap down from the top goes from the new chains atop Field of Dreams and requires a *70m* rope.

Regarding the last pitch, is there available gear placements above the bolt? If so, what sizes should I bring? Where is the next belay located? Any additional information about this pitch is more than welcome!

Thanks.

Per Stein's recommendation I tried the 'direct finish' and continued up the flakes, instead of taking the original pitch three out right. I found the climbing on those delicate flakes to be quite exciting as the footholds are small and it is uncertain if cams placed behind the flake would hold a fall or just pull a large chunk of the flake onto your head. At the end of the pitch you find yourself about ten feet shy of the bolted anchor, above gear in an expanding flake, with an odd 5.9 mantle to finish the pitch. "Not desperate, but not a good place to fall." I'd probably rate this pitch 10a(5.9R).
From the anchor at the end of the flakes, my partner climbed the last pitch of Happy Hooker, which was quite nice. The pitch starts off with one bolt of aid, then moves right and up on easy terrain before climbing a cool section of steep 5.9. This pitch tops out right by a bolted anchor. I would suspect that you could rap back to the anchor at the end of the flakes, then to the 2nd belay on the vampire, then to the 1st belay on the vampire, then to vampire ledge with a 60m. Can anyone confirm that this works with a 60m?

Unless you enjoy Bat crap I wouldn’t recommend the direct start to anyone. The wind caused the shit to fly everywhere. It got in my hair, eyes and mouth. Not a fun experience. The rest of the route is of course totally awesome. Especially the second pitch. You cant beat that exposure!

What a stellar climb! The best I've done so far at Tahquitz.

I thought the last part of the Bat Crack (the mantle move) was harder than either of the supposed cruxes.

Agreed

Best route on this side of the valley.The flakes route is harder in my opinion but this is the coolest line.Both a must do for any one at this grade.

I'm a little surprised by the comment that the direct start is dirty. Albeit I haven't climbed this route in 10 years, I remember it being quite clean. Two more points about the direct start/first pitch: it's not .11a unless you're crack skills are wanting; and the direct start, I think, make the first pitch substantially harder. I think it's only .10c from the ledge, and that's mostly because of the bouldery section past the bolt. However, the direct start adds a good 40' of steep, slick climbing. You'll be much more tired because of it. Still probably only .10d, maybe.

Also, I had a heck of a time at the mantle at the end of the pitch but saw my second climb up and level to the belay bolts and just step over. I felt dumb.

The direct start ( The bat crack ) is 5.10b at least that's what it was when I led it. Don't feel dumb. That mantle is 5.10c I did the same thing. Most everyone does.

Finally ticked this on Memorial Day, 2008. Cold temps (40s), swirling fog, and limited visibility added to the imposing and exciting nature of the route!

P1 - Bat Crack. Did the direct start. It was clean except for some brittle rock at the bottom. I think this *significantly* ups the difficulty of the pitch since you arrive at the Bat Crack proper fatigued and with some of your pro already used. It is a 45m pitch done this way. The direct start seemed all of 10+ to me - tight hands, slick feet, and no rests through the business. Keep plugging upwards, once you hit the wide part below the bolt you get plenty of rests between harder moves. Have faith! I did the "step across" rather than the mantel. It still felt 10+ and plenty exciting to me.

P2 - Ouch, those crimps hurt with cold fingers! What more needs to be said... a wild move and a wild pitch. The upper section might only be 9+/10-, but the position and sometimes insecure feet keeps the excitement level high! On the crux, my foot popped at the last minute and I dyno'd for the jug and stuck it. That got me going :)

P3 - Easy liebacking, clip the bolt, and bust the move. I'm only 5'8, and the move to reach the seam felt pretty damn hard. I took a few falls before sticking it. Above the bolt, the climbing stays delicate until the obvious undercling above. I was able to place a good RP in the seam, but it was exciting to place! Keep your head on until you get to the undercling. Some route finding linking crack features sees you to the next belay. Hand size pieces (#0.75 - #2 camalot) are needed for this belay.

P4 - Up the finger crack, over the roof, and kiss the top!

Rack - Wires, including RPs. At least a double set of cams from small (green C3) to #3 camalot. I had triple #0.75, #1, and #2 camalots and was fairly thankful on the Bat Crack+Direct start... it is a LONG pitch. Bring LOTS of slings/quickdraws if you are doing the direct start. Be sure to save some long slings for the last move of the Bat Crack, or you'll be cursing the rope drag.

Did the direct start, smelled bat crap but didn't have to do any guano jams; the flakes on P2 collected quite a bit of guano and smelled like it as well.

I tried to figure out the step-across to the P2 belay but couldn't, so I wound up doing the mantle, which worked.

Thought moving up past the bolt on P3 to be the definite crux and quite hard.

Followed Andy's rack suggestion but never used the second set of C3s or the RPs (ran out the P3 thin crack until the bigger flake).

A really stellar climb.

I led the first two pitches on July 11th via direct start and didn't find the direct start dirty or filled with bat crap.

After reading all the beta and scoping out the step across for P1 I wasn't really seeing the move. I went for the mantle and am glad I did. For me it was a very dynamic move and my favorite on the route.

The direct start was clean when I did it but there were bats inside the crack higher up chirping(?) at me.

For me:

Bat Crack with direct start = endurance crux
Mantel to bolts = mental crux
Crimps off of belay to flake = pain crux
Moving past bolt into seam = technical crux

Full value route, understatement. All the stars possible.

whoa....really?!?!? yea, it's that good...

Direct finish: A hard to see, but perfect half pad, 8 finger edge takes the "R" out of the connector pitch for the leader, but you'd need to run it way out above that to keep the second protected on the same section. I'd call the connector .10b, with a 5.8R section.

In the spirit of having and adventure i tried to onsight the vampire at midnight under a full moon wearing a cloak and vampire teeth...I did not onsihgt, but had a lot of fun trying! Here is a TR from that night.

pullharder.org/2010/09/11/anything-but-ordinary-full-moon-as>>>

For full value do the Pharoah as pitch one and get some true 5.12 in the mix because you can.

JL

Booty in the Bat-crack! Yesterday I pretty much welded a brand new blue dmm curve nut into the bat crack after a 25 footer (yeah, a little more slack than I thought)...... so, hope you're good at extracting nuts.