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The Convent
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Value of Audacity, The T 

The Value of Audacity 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Earl Wiggins, Keith Reynolds
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 1,656
Submitted By: Ari Menitove on Oct 24, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Value of Audacity from the bottom

Description 

The Value of Audacity is an awesome route that is just as cool as its name. It doesn't get the traffic that a lot of the other Castle Valley trade routes get which has pros (no lines, more adventure) and cons (not quite as clean and user friendly). If you've ticked off the other nearby towers, then you really have no excuse not to climb this route. It has mostly straightforward meat and potatoes hand crack climbing with a few short but burly cruxes. There are a few wide sections, too, but they're pretty clean and straightforward.

Heres how it breaks down:

P1 (150', 5.11+): Traverse from the right into the corner below the huge roof. Climb the corner to the roof, get in some gear, and dip into your inner orangutan to bust out the roof. The moves aren't obvious, but it's obvious that there are no feet and that if the hike up the talus didn't wake you up, this section of climbing will. After the roof, battle the inevitable rope drag through fun hand cracks and a wide section protected by a #1 camalot crack in the back. There are a few good ledges to set up a belay (save some hand-sized pieces).

P2(120', 5.11+): Climb a super clean hand crack that starts at #1 camalots and goes to a #4 or #5 C4 before pinching back down to fingers and thin hands. Where the crack gets wide, there are lots of pockets and face features to make things easier. Pull a small roof via some really cool and fun moves (5.11+, but both my buddy Charlie and I thought it was WAY easier than the crux of P1). Then keep climbing up a crack that eventually turns into a low-angled clean finger crack. Belay in a recessed area.

P3 (~120', 5.8ish): Continue up the crack system, which is basically a chimney at this point. Work your way up through some ledges, and belay when it seems like it's just a scramble to the top.

Then scramble to the top.

Descent: We rappelled the very large corner system located to the climber's left of the route (2 60m ropes required). The first rap is from a single good, vertically-drilled bolt on a ledge located between the Value of Audacity and the very large corner. The second rap has 1 good bolt and a bunch of junk. The third rap has no good bolts and only junk (Someone needs to back this up. A bolt would be great. You might also be able to ditch a #10 hex in the crack here)

Note: There are no fixed anchors on The Value of Audacity (and with a name like that, it seems like there shouldn't be)

Location 

The Value of Audacity is visible from the road leading to Sister Superior from US128. It is located near the left side (closest to the Colorado River) and it faces downstream/toward the Crooked Arrow Spire. The huge roof on the first pitch can be seen from the road near the bottom of the cliff as a 2-tiered roof in a right-facing corner. The route is located just right of a very obvious, slightly left-leaning corner system near the left edge of the Convent.

Protection 

Doubles on blue tcu to #4 C4. You may want to bring a #5 C4, but not having this piece would not be a deal breaker. Extra hand-sized pieces (green C4 through gold C4) are also nice. We accidentally brought up 4 #1 C4's and placed them all on the first pitch. A few nuts and some long slings, too.


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By Scott Bennett
Oct 28, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Fun route, we tried it yesterday as part of an attempted 5-tower enchainment of the ridge. We only finished 3 towers, in a large part because this route was pretty time consuming.
The P1 roof is definitely the crux. When it seems really desperate, look around.
We stopped P1 short (~70', atop the giant block/fin) due to rope drag, but were still easily able to finish the route in two more pitches (3 total).

Finding the raps: We rapped the corner to the climber's left of VOA, as mentioned above. To find the first rap, scramble up and right from the top of last pitch and then walk left to a single (new) bolt anchor. We had two ropes, and ended up skipping some stations, but I don't think you could rap it with a single line (even a 70m). A few raps have old bolts and dicey pins, as well as crispy webbing. Bringing new tat and even a bolt kit (for the rap route, not VOA!) would be a great community service.

-Scott
By Scott McLeod
Apr 13, 2011

Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.
By Josh Janes
Apr 28, 2013

A great first pitch that is unfortunately totally ruined by hopeless rope drag. The upper crux is spectacular as well, but the rest of the climbing (not to mention the approach) is mostly a pile.

The line to do appears to be Choir Boyz which as Scott says makes for 5 smooth raps with a 70 from the summit.
By herb crimp
Jul 1, 2013

On P1, our rope got stuck to the point that the second had to jug the fixed/stuck line. It appears that the drag could be reduced or eliminated by placing a directional cam in the horizontal break at the lip of the roof after pulling the roof. This would pull the rope out away from the roof itself.