This is an area where you are almost guaranteed solitude and privacy. While it's very close to Murrin Park, it's rarely visited due to the stout approach: the distance isn't great, but it's pretty rugged. The payoff is a beautiful valley, isolated from road noise, cool temperatures on a hot day, and some very nice routes.
This valley has never been logged and has a Lost World feel. My partner commented that he half expected pygmies with bones through their noses to shoot poison darts at us while we were there.
Of the crags in this area, some may be overgrown and lost, but Donny's Roof and The Pillar of Payan, at least, look good. According to various blogs by local hardpeople, the route Zap Crack (12d crack) has seen a fair number of redpoints in the last few years.
Park as for Murrin Park
, cross the road (carefully!) and walk south past Leviticus
and past Browning Bluff (the cliff just south of Leviticus and opposite the lake). Less than 50 feet south of Browning Bluff a rough trail heads up into the woods.
Follow this steep trail until you see a scraggly crag ("Above-the-Lake"). Head right and then up steeply for ten minutes. You will pass through a narrowing referred to as the Quail's Gate in McLane's book. One of the areas, Entrance Exam, is left of the gate. After passing through the Quail's Gate, you will reach the top of a North-South ridge. You can head north to access two crags (Closing Number and Fan the Flame), south to The Needle or the Mountianeers Cliff, or continue east into the Valley itself.
The descent into the Valley is steep. While there are many hand-lines on Squamish trails, climbers tend to ignore them, but this is one that you'll use and get some rope burn from.
At the bottom of the gully you'll see the Donny's Roof crag on the left and Gym Dandy on the right. Further south is Alex's Room, The Pillar of Payan, Emmies Landing and the Wonder Wall.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Valley of Shaddai
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Valley of Shaddai:
Featured Route For The Valley of Shaddai
Just Blessed 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b North America
: ... : The Pillar of Payan
If you're going to make the trek to the Valley of Shaddai then this route is a must while you're there. Climb the left facing dihedral for about 35' to a nice ledge and a brief rest before launching into the harder climbing. Follow an obvious vertical crack that ranges in size from finger to hands with nice jamming and face holds. After about 90' of climbing the crack traverses almost straight left for an exciting finish to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Glenn Payan
Sep 4, 2008
Great to see pics of people still enjoying the valley. Good to see that this place hasn't totally succumbed to the moss, and that our work there was not in vain.
Hint: Have a look at the huge unclimbed left facing corner just south of "Em".
As well there's some great looking cracks on the wall to the right of the corner. (likely best viewed from the west side ridge.
Surprised no one has nabbed them
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 4, 2008
Hi Glenn. I thought it was a great place to visit and although we only got on one route, it was great fun.
I was thumbing a magazine two days ago and saw your name. There was a photograph of one of your paintings and a little write-up.
For the benefit of anyone else, check out Glenn's website at glennpayan.com his paintings are stunning, and often feature areas and peaks familiar to climbers.