Holden flies up the variable chimney and stemming ...
This spectacular valley lies deep in the northern Wonderland of Rocks. It lies south of Rattlesnake Canyon and east of Lemon & Lime Domes. Routes are up to 200 feet or more in length, though most are about 100 feet long. There are 5 formations with established routes: The Helmet
, The Lynch Crag
, The Trad Crag
, The Arrowhead
, and The Corrugated Wall
Climbers made tentative explorations into this area at least 25 years ago and later a few easier multipitch routes were established on The Trad Crag
, However, no serous development occurred until the early 1990s.
This valley is best approached from Indian Cove (though it can be approached from Willow Hole, by passing down (east) the rocky gully between Lemon and Lime Domes). From the Rattlesnake Canyon Picnic Area, head up the Rattlesnake Canyon wash for about 400 yards; where the wash makes a sharp left turn (this is where you head right to reach the Corral Wall), the terrain become more jumbled; stay right of the wash/rocky stream on slabs until you head up through a notch; above drop back into the main wash. Follow the wash as it turns right (west)and levels and continue west for several hundred yards; past The Pyramid and Commissioner's Buttress.
At this point you can see a huge boulder field (the actual watercourse of the Wonderland Wash) coming down the hillside to your left (south). Head up this toward a notch in the hillside. Where the watercourse levels a bit, stay right and eventually reach a large relatively level valley. The Helmet will be seen almost directly ahead, the Valley of Kings runs to the left (east). Lemon & Lime Domes will be seen off to the right. Plan on about 1 hour to reach this point.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
25 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Valley of Kings
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Valley of Kings:
Featured Route For The Valley of Kings
The Tomahawk 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : The Helmet
This incredible 2-pitch route begins in a left arching crack about 50' left of a large pine tree at the base of The Helmet's north face. Climb up a ramp underneath the crack to the first piton. A bolt past the piton leads to sporty face climbing to a second piton (TCU's may be placed here). A difficult move past the second piton leads to a sustained and technical traverse past 7 more bolts to a hanging 2 bolt belay. The second pitch passes 9 bolts up a steep chute over "mini moguls" to another ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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