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 ADVANCED
The Charlatan
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Fortune T 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 
Fancy Free T 
Gemstone T 
Northwest Route T 
Spooky T 
Superstition T 
Valley Guy, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Valley Guy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 1, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Not a shot of the fine upper section, but a view o...

Description 

The Valley Guy is an interesting affair, and a bit on the scruffy side, though the second bit of welded flakes and perfect jams is really enjoyable climbing. We did this line in two short pitches.

P1 Start up the Northwest Route for 50 feet until you are almost equal in height to a large hanging flake to your left. Belay in slot with small/medium cams. A #4 is helpful for the lead as well as belay.

P2 Launch out into the the left trending traverse via flake cracks, underclings, and decent feet. The crux comes at you quickly, and it is a reachy one if you want to do it static. Double up your pro here and make a long reach left to a super incut sidepull. There is a decent sidepull down low on this vertical rail. Do a quick shuffle and be rewarded with excellent gear and great climbing to the top. Belay at comfy, diagonal crack near the top. Walk off the back.

Location 

After climbing down the chimney notch look east and you cant miss it. The scruffy first pitch has vegetation in it.

Protection 

At least a set of doubles up to #3 camalot. A #4 is very useful.


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