The Usual Suspects
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This is a fun climb on mostly good rock that is fairly thin & powerful for the grade.
Begin with an easy mantle onto a spooky perched block above the low ledge (careful not to pull this block off the ledge). Hike up several more tiered ledges and precarious blocks to a stance below the clean wall. Make sure your belayer is watching as you step onto the instantly cruxy panel. A sustained section of sequential pockets & crimps leads past several bolts to a horizontal break. Cruise easier spikey rock to the anchor.
10' left of the shared start of "New Ethics" & "Midget Toss", begin directly behind the 15' juniper pine south of the trail.
~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.
|Comments on The Usual Suspects
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
The meat of this route is excellent, albeit really short. Unfortunately it is fairly high up, above a pile of nasty flakes. Between the natural sag in the rope (due to the big ledges), the height, and the ankle-breaking flakes, you will probably want a close belay.