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The Upheaval 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Glenn Thomas,Bob Rentka and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 1,465
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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BP leading up Upheaval 9-2010.

Description 

Sweet slab.

Belay from the ledge or you will not be able to lower the leader to the ground with anything shorter than a 60m rope.

Originally a 5.10c R trad line, it was bolted because it saw only one repeat ascent in 5 years. Since its bolting it has become very popular.

Fun and spicy moves up the slab. Lots of on-your-feet climbing makes this one a classic in my book.

Location 

Right most route on the slabs, starts off higher ledge.

Protection 

8 bolts to nasty, needing to be replaced, anchors.


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By Vicki Schwantes
From: Washington, DC
Sep 7, 2010

This is a great climb! Very thoughtful. I think the anchors have been replaced, they looked good. I took a fall right below the 6th bolt. I didn't get the move right, it's straightforward enough, but I guess I was having an off day. It was a 25-30 foot fall, with a bounce off the slab, and a big head knock on the flake below. Wear a helmet! Always! I'm not sure I'd be writing this comment if I wasn't wearing it.
By Naz
From: Herndon, Virginia
Dec 27, 2011

I climbed this in fall of 2009, when I went back Dec 25th, noticed a couple of rock scars, particularly by the 2nd bolt (lets just say it's not a slab move anymore), and one further up by the 4th bolt (turned into a move over a bulge). Curious to know if anyone knew the history of the two scars, because I definitely don't remember them from 2009.
By BMat
Oct 6, 2012

Definitely a hold broken off between the 2nd and 3rd bolt making a new crux that felt 5.10+ to me.
By Jacob Sustrich 1
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Lots of fun! There's a crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts that I agree with BMat on - felt a bit harder than 5.9 but not too bad. It's going to be hard if you don't look enough beforehand, or if you're a bit shorter. For me, if I remember correctly, it was a double undercling type move with a really high foot with a long reach to a crimp at about 1 o'clock.

If you can get that, you can finish the rest. There's another little crux after the second to last bolt, I couldn't use the mono pockets/pinch so I just tall person'd it and did a pullup off two slopers above.

Lots of fun. My first outdoor lead. Highly recommended in the grade.
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