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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower One
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland T 
Apple Strudel T,S 
Art Of Slappiness, The S 
Art's Spar T 
Better Layton Never S 
Blueberry Boodle T 
Body Tremors T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Consummation Nite T 
Daedalus T 
Deadpoint T 
Dirty Deed T 
Doub-Griffith T 
E.L.100 T 
Electric Aunt Jemima T 
Exhibit A T 
Exit Stage Left T 
Flashdance T 
Fresh Garbage T 
Grand Giraffe T 
Icarus T 
Ignition S 
Italian Arete T 
King Cobra, The T 
Magic Bus T 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Magic Route T 
Mellow Fellow T 
Mellow Yellow T,S 
Memory Lapse T 
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 
Much Slater (left variation) T 
Neptune's Bible T 
Neurosis T 
One and a Half Hours of Power T 
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 
Parting Shot T,S 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 
Pigeon Crack T 
Psycho Pigeon T 
Psychosis T 
Reaper T 
Rocky Raccoon T 
Roll Over Rover T 
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 
Rover T 
Ruper T 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 
Short Arm Inspection. T 
Smoke & Mirrors T 
Song of the Dodo T,TR 
South Face of Tower One T 
Super Slab T 
Superspar T 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 
To RP or not to Be T 
Untouchables, The S 
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 
Vertigo T 
West Arete (of T1), The T 
Without A Net T 
Yellow Fellow T 
Yellow Spur, The T 
Ytrid Deed, The T 

The Untouchables 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, Dan Hare, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,137
Submitted By: Scott Bennett on Apr 19, 2011

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Wild, tenuous moves through the brown band get you...

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  • Description 

    The Untouchables is a fun, little, sport climbing diversion in the Apple Strudel area. It's characterized by solid rock, good holds, and bouldery moves.

    Begin a few feet right of AS, placing a finger-sized piece to protect a few moves up to the first bolt. Traverse right, then punch it through the next two bolts (crux) on surprisingly positive crimps and sidepulls. Resist the temptation to climb right into Ignition, but rather finish the crux up and left on progressively better holds. One more bolt gets you to the 3 bolt anchor shared with Apple Strudel.

    A second pitch has been recently bolted, and goes up and right from the anchor, over a roof, and then up the crimpy face above. The crux (11b) is probably establishing on the face after a few juggy roof moves.

    I was a bit confused on the second pitch. After clipping a few normally spaced bolts on the face above the roof, I climbed a ways above the last bolt, aiming for what looked like a crack system. A tricky and lichen-ous move guarded the crack, though, so I opted to downclimb, traverse well to the left, and then traverse back on easier ground. I'm not sure if this is the path that the FAs intended, or if they went straight up to the crack, with potential for a big (but probably clean) fall. Follow your nose.

    To descend from the second pitch, walk to the climber's left to the bolted West Chimney raps.

    Location 

    This is just right of Apple Strudel.

    Follow the Redgarden trail up the West face, towards The Yellow Spur area. This route is on a clean, brown plaque of rock between the YS and the Dirty Deed Chimney.

    Protection 

    A finger-size cam at the start, then QDs. Bring a light rack for the 2nd pitch.


    Photos of The Untouchables Slideshow Add Photo
    Exiting the crux moves after some very unique clim...
    Exiting the crux moves after some very unique clim...
    Climber on Apple Strudel. The first pitch of Untou...
    BETA PHOTO: Climber on Apple Strudel. The first pitch of Untou...

    Comments on The Untouchables Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Bennett
    May 13, 2012

    If you're interested in climbing the fun 5.11 second pitch but don't want to tackle the 12c first pitch, you can reach it in two ways:

    -Climb Apple Strudel (12a) to the shared, three-bolt anchor.

    -Climb any route up to the "Red Ledge" (the best would probably be Parting Shot, 11b), and then rappel off a large tree (with rap slings) to the three-bolt anchor from which the second pitch begins.

    Take care on this rap: the wall is steep, and the anchor is to rappeler's right. If you don't keep your swing going, you could easily become stuck in space and gain some unwanted prusiking practice.
    By Mark Tarrant
    May 15, 2012
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Scott -- Pitch 2 was originally top-roped in 1988 but never bolted. Steve Levin had submitted a bolting application in 2009 and asked that I bolt it after he sustained an injury. His application called for 4 additional bolts, and he showed me a photo with a rough idea of where he wanted them. I got them in but had the same confusion as you about whether to climb straight up or not. I ended up moving left as well and still thought it was pretty insecure and runout. Even though there's a marginal piece or two, I think it would still be nice to have another bolt -- but I've become less bold in my old age!
    Thanks for the write-up.
    By Adam Sanders
    From: Louisville, CO
    Dec 25, 2013
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    This thing seldom gets done, but it's really pretty rad. At first attempt, it seems like a route that's just really hard but not actually that fun, BUT, if you spend a little more time on it and figure out the trick beta, it's really fun and extremely unique. There is definite shoulder-tweak potential, so make sure you delve into it with control, and use good posture. I won't spray the trick beta here, but PM me if you like. I gave it four stars for the mostly great rock, the beautiful wall, and typical Eldo crypticness that has you super frustrated then absolutely loving it. A small to medium nut or cam before the last bolt would be wise. It's easy climbing, but it gets really runout pretty quickly. Go do this thing!