The Unsung War
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This is a two pitch route. The first pitch climbs a runnout 60ft chimney with one bolt about half way up to a sandy spacious ledge. The second pitch climbs an over hanging hand crack (crux) for 12ft then up into a tight dihedral with everything form fingers to fists up to another spacious ledge where you traverse out right and up the face past a few bolts to the top. The route's a bit dirty but not too bad, its probably only seen two ascents. The bolts and anchors are all bomber and it takes gear well. Plenty of spots to fire something in. This route is south faceing and is always in the shade. You can climb an arching crack out on the face to avoid the chimney on the first pitch. Its a bit loose and not as fun. You can also traverse out left across the chimney to the buttress face at the start of the second pitch and climb 5.7RX to the top avoideng the crack system all together. I looked at it and gave it a brief go. I don't have the balls, maybe you do. Theirs one old mank bolt for pro, yippie.
This route is found on the south side of the Pagoda just to the right and behind the Pillar route. Its an obvious dark chasm chimney. You can rap the route barely with a 60m rope, or make a short rap down the back side of the Pagoda on a large chain anchor.
Nuts 1set Cams .5"-3" Bolted achors.
|Comments on The Unsung War
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Could be fun but it needs to be pressure hosed and climbed by a 200 pounder with crow bars in each hand to break off all of the remaining choss. The bird poop is thick on this route. Lastly it would be best to place one or two more bolts in the chimney to protect from the potential fall due to looseness. It has potential as it's mostly good black varnished rock and at the least it's worth a top rope from The Pillar anchors. I cleaned a bunch of bird poo and dead bushes out of it, it's half as dirty as it once was. If leading bring doubles in hand sizes to protect you well in the loose sandstone on the overhanging crux. As with all the routes here, do it in one pitch with a 6o meter.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Aug 28, 2012
Awesome!!! Yeah, it's pretty shitty in spots... literally. Thanks for giving it a cleaning. I did what I could when leading it, but you can only do so much with one hand jammed in a crack. How'd you like that overhanging hands section? Pretty unique eh!
I placed that bolt in the chimney on the second accent. Originally lead it without. I'm not opposed to adding bolts if more people agree it could use em. I'm pretty confident in chimneys but understand the concern due to the sandy rock. Just don't go overboard (two more would be more than enough for "safety"), do it on lead and tell me before you do it. Otherwise they won't last half a second when I see em.
I'd even be willing to help you, supply the bolts, and loan the hand drill and hammer.
|By Phil McAllister|
May 12, 2013
Route looks to have a new set of chain anchors at the top of the first pitch. can see them coming down from rock of ages. never noticed them before - and hadn't heard of any of the usual suspects installing them. they're just to the left of the tree on the ledge at the top of the chimney from the ground. didn't climb the route and check them out. . . . .
From: Vacaville Ca.
May 13, 2013
Those are origional. They've always been there.