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 ADVANCED
Nude Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Damage T 
Brainwashed T 
Cruisin' in the Nude T,S 
Liar, Liar... S 
Naked Truth, The S 
Numb T 
Unspoken Truth, The S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Unspoken Truth 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: [Erik Fedor, '94] or possibly Kurt Smith early '90s
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: j wharton on Jul 4, 2006

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Description 

Climb up a beautiful black and red streaked wall on the Nude Buttress. Some old Leeper Hangers next to '90s era bolts are likely from an old Harvey Carter aid route, which worked right up the seam into the corner above. Easy but technical climbing off the ground leads to a powerful undercling crux, a good jug rest at mid-height, and a final redpoint crux just before lower angle terrain is reached.

Jeff Hollenbaugh remembers belaying Kurt Smith while he worked on this route in the early '90s but thinks it's unlikely that Kurt ever finished the route.


Location 

This is the second sport route from the right on the crag. Old Leeper hangers help identify the line.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Erik Fedor
Jul 18, 2006

I sent this route back in 1994 and reported it to Tom Perkin's at that time. I gave the name of the route to Tom, but I don't remember it now! This was known as an unfinished route of Kurt's. I also belayed Chris Bea on the project to the left. He had a top rope ascent of the route, but we didn't finish bolting it when our drill ran out of juice.
Erik Fedor

By j wharton
Aug 27, 2006

Hey Eric and Chris,

Thanks for the history. I had heard the some muddled stories about these routes from Goplerud, Hollenbaugh, Benge, and even called Perkins to see what he knew. You guys both came up, but nobody really knew what the story was. Most assumed they were still unclimbed, so sorry about any confusion. Strange that Tom ignored these climbs in his book--he gave me some weird reasons over the phone. Eric, if you remember your name for unspoken truth let's use it, or re-name it now if you like. Either of you guys still climbing on the Western slope? All the best.

cheers,
Josh

By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 27, 2013

Wow, the crux undercling move on this climb is super hard, and it doesn't really let up until you clip the last bolt. Fun climb!