The Unnamed Wall has a variety of climbs, ranging from fat WI 3 to very difficult mixed (M7-9). Unlike the Genesis/Mummy areas, the Unnamed Wall is favorably located on the sunny aspect of the canyon. However, this does cause less consistency in the formation of several routes. Also note that lead climbing is required here as there is no easy way to walk around to set up top-ropes.
The Unnamed Wall approach (with a beaten path) is shorter than one might expect. From the Hyalite Creek/Peak aka Grotto Falls Trailhead follow the main trail for a short distance to the first major clearing (the one with the trail sign at its far side). Follow the first trail off to the right (west) down to the creek. Cross the creek and traverse right around a steep hill. Then, angle left up a wide drainage, and go right past the tree choked gully. Continue up to the talus slope and hike up its right side to arrive at the cliff band just left of the impressive climb of Bingo World. Approach times will vary from somewhere around 25-45 minutes depending on the trail conditions and one's hiking speed.
Browse More Classics in The Unnamed Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Unnamed Wall:
Mousetrap M4+ Mixed, 1 pitch, 108 feet
The Fat One WI3 Ice, 1 pitch, 150 feet
The Elevator Shaft WI4- Ice, 1 pitch, 115 feet
The Thrill is Gone M4 Mixed, 1 pitch, 205 feet
Featured Route For The Unnamed Wall
The Elevator Shaft WI4- MT : Hyalite Canyon : The Unnamed Wall
This climb differs from others on the Unnamed Wall in that it is tucked away in a small, north facing cleft. It receives much less sun and is usually more brittle than nearby climbs such as The Fat One. However, this a great climb and a good transition for a WI 3 leader wanting to get a taste of leading steeper ice. The short initial pillar is WI 4 and the crux. The climbing becomes easier upon entering the narrow gully, which has a couple steeper steps and ends in a small bowl. A new chain anch...[more] Browse More Classics in MT