The Unmentionable  5.7 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  unknown Season:  dry Submitted By:  Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Unmentionable from near the trail. Note climb...

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Raptor Closures! MORE INFO >>> Like a lot of the Pinnacles area, the High Peaks is subject to raptor closures. These closures affect all of the high peaks. The closures typically begin mid January and continue through to the middle of July. Please take these closures seriously. Our access to the High Peaks depends on our ability to respect these closures. For more info on closures go to the Friends of Pinnacles website (www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html) This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>> Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife: * From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999) * From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead) * Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214) * Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation. The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect. Signage has been posted at strategic locations. Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both. Resurrection Wall 2010 Submitted By: Closures and Restrictions on May 10, 2010 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The climbing route faces the trail, and, starts after a short scramble to a small rock saddle (old star-dryvin' belay bolt at saddle).

Scramble up easy ridge to steeper rock at a broken horizontal seam. Clip bolt above the break, send that rig to the summit.

Great position, a free standing pinnacle and some might find inspiration for something after staring longingly at the formation (a cold shower?).

Classic Pinnacles summit. Well worth the scenic hike.

Historical note: the 1966 Roper guide rated this route 5.3.

Location 

From the High Peaks Trail starting on the East Side, goes past the Anvil about 200 meters and look to the left: it looks like, uhh: Unmentionable!

Rappel from the summit.

Protection 

One bolt protects the short crux and route. Two bolt anchor on summit for the rappel back to the ground.

Photos of The Unmentionable Slideshow

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Geez, that's so...Unmentionable!	BETA PHOTO: At the only bolt, just below the crux of the Unmen...	Summit of the Unmentionable.
Photo of a climber on top.	Mathew G takes off!	El Greco on top of the Unmentionable!
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Unmentionable.	On top ...