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The route is a "squeeze in" and may originally have been a more well known and often climbed route, but for the fact that there are obvious lines almost within reach on either side of this relatively blank face.
Follow the directions to a climb called "The Unsaid
." Climb that rope and hang a TR above it (up and left are the rap anchors).
TR the face immediately left of The Unsaid
, and without using the crack of The Unsaid
or the crack to your left, toward Washington Irving
. Though the Rossiter book calls it an arete, it is a face.
The crux is a less-than-vertical face with crimper fingers and smears for feet. It is a 3 move crux, with only one really hard move. The crux sequence begins with a shallow (1/4 pad) finger pocket in the left hand and had some long reaches.
A second, easier, crux is getting past the roof at the top, which is done near the right hand side, but quite so far as to be reaching into the crack system of The Unsaid
I've tried as have others to move through the roof via the seam on the left side, but as of yet this seems to be undone.
One could protect the unlead by moving to either crack system to either side (and back again) every so-often, but this breaks up the climbing. It is better as a Top Rope.
If you want to lead it, take gear, small to 2".
By Chris Archer
Aug 21, 2003
The final roof goes at the R facing corner seam. Surprisingly not that difficult, although rather tricky. 5.11+/12-. Beth Bennett and I toproped it last September (02).
By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
The right-facing seam just below the anchors seemed about 11b to me, and would make sense as the arete between the Unsaid and Washington Irving. The crux to me pulled around the arete from left to right into the corner slab and the anchors.