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 ADVANCED
Green Phantom Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fine Line TR 
Great Escape T,TR 
Phantom Crack far left T,TR 
Phantom Staircase Left TR 
Phantom Staircase Middle TR 
Phantom Staircase Right TR 
Power Struggle T 
Roccocater S 
Undercling Thing T 
Unknown Phantom, The T 
Yellow Jacket S 

The Unknown Phantom 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Oct 17, 2011

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Description 

Like a (very) poor man's On the Lamb, this dirty, gently rising crack traverse is pretty fun although brief in length. A bit of featured slab gains entry to the left side start where protection is easily had. Midway the protection thins out for a few moves until you get a couple of solid pieces. The end of this horizontal crack leads into the finish of the Undercling Thing's real climbing. All in all, probably 25' of business followed by an anchor scramble.

From there, either head up or climber's right and around to access the anchors.

I'm calling this The Unknown Phantom because this climb is not featured in any of the guidebooks I have available for the area (both old and new Carville guides, and the new North Tahoe book). If you know the FA information, let me know so I can change the description, I am sure it has been led or free soloed before. This climb is definitely a fun, albeit overlooked diversion while in the area and a few more parties on it might clean up the mossy placements!

Location 

The crack that gently diagonals up and right, 25' left from the start of the Undercling Thing.

Protection 

Small to 3" cams. There is a bonus #1 camalot placement in a downward facing pocket as well. Pro appears solid, although the rock is a bit grainy and mossy inside the crack. Bolted anchors shared with Undercling Thing.


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