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 ADVANCED
Saddle Rocks - Skirt (North Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
I Smell a Rat T 
Raging Bull Dike S 
Space Mountain T 
Unicorner, The T 

The Unicorner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis - January 1980
Page Views: 551
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jan 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This dihedral is worth doing if in the area.

Up onto the left side of Space Mountain sloping ledge, then steeply up the dihedral, getting established in the wide section is probably the crux as the left wall is devoid of holds, follow the wide crack up and then it it starts to get less steep.

Location 

Left of Space Mountain. Descent is using the Saddle Rock rappel anchors to the left above I Smell a Rat.

Protection 

Small/medium, plus big cam(s) for that wide section.


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By Tradoholic
May 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Yea, kinda insecure laybaking in the crux and a touch runout to the next gear. Worth doing for sure but be confident at the grade.
By Gabe Huie
Feb 17, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pretty safe Route if you feel confident placing gear on a face crack. Honestly don't let the rating scare you away. Plenty of great feet and hands just avoid going into the crack too deep.
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