The Unfinished Piece 

The rating on this route is BS, there is an airy, exposed move over a roof with only slick downward sloping slab for feet. It's awful at first, but once you pull the move it isn't to bad. But it's a huge head trip and no 5.6 climber could make those moves. I rated it 5.7+ because I think it could be closer to an 5.8.

Oh, and broke this up into two pitches. Set up a belay under the roof, thought I was running low on gear, but turns out I could have easily finished and still set an anchor up top

Looking at an old guide book the topo here does not show the correct route. You should traverse far left, not pull the roof like the topo shows. Old guide book also says 5.7, so by my guess if you pull the roof it may even go at 5.8. But who am I to say?

The slabby corner 10' to the left is really hard to protect, so I elected to go up the diagonal hand crack slightly left (as Caleb discusses). I think that a way to protect the climb further left would be to stick a medium to large piece in the hand crack before traversing.

The roof section of this route is more about your head than anything else. IMO, bypassing this obstacle to the left would sink the rating to 5.5. If your weak on slab then the roof will feel more intense than it actually is. I bet that another pass will make it seem way easier than it was during the first round.

took the direct path at the crux, and was hesitant. I did get the onsite, but this is not a 5.6 in my opinion, even compared to other 5.6s in the refuge.

I don't know why this route isn't in Tony's guidebook but I really enjoyed the route. Fun exposed moves near the top make it a great Wichita's climb.