Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
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Cliimbing the slab and up past the large cedar tree to the right of Critical Mass. Then traverse left following a short crack, or work up the slabs above (preferred) A good route for an easy trad lead.
Start just right of the Critical Mass Slab. Crazy Alice Rap Station.
The rating on this route is BS, there is an airy, exposed move over a roof with only slick downward sloping slab for feet. It's awful at first, but once you pull the move it isn't to bad. But it's a huge head trip and no 5.6 climber could make those moves. I rated it 5.7+ because I think it could be closer to an 5.8.
Oh, and broke this up into two pitches. Set up a belay under the roof, thought I was running low on gear, but turns out I could have easily finished and still set an anchor up top
Looking at an old guide book the topo here does not show the correct route. You should traverse far left, not pull the roof like the topo shows. Old guide book also says 5.7, so by my guess if you pull the roof it may even go at 5.8. But who am I to say?
By Stan Jones From: Benbrook, TX Apr 28, 2009 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
The slabby corner 10' to the left is really hard to protect, so I elected to go up the diagonal hand crack slightly left (as Caleb discusses). I think that a way to protect the climb further left would be to stick a medium to large piece in the hand crack before traversing.
The roof section of this route is more about your head than anything else. IMO, bypassing this obstacle to the left would sink the rating to 5.5. If your weak on slab then the roof will feel more intense than it actually is. I bet that another pass will make it seem way easier than it was during the first round.
By bad dude From: Oklahoma City,OK Apr 25, 2012 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
took the direct path at the crux, and was hesitant. I did get the onsite, but this is not a 5.6 in my opinion, even compared to other 5.6s in the refuge.