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The Happy Submarine
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Undiscovered Country, The T 

The Undiscovered Country 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Chris Kalous and Dan Gambino
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Dec 22, 2006

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Jason Wells on pitch 2.

Description 

This is from vague memory, so take it as a loose description :)

P1: Chimney to a stance with two bolt anchor. 5.8

P2: Laybacking through a short wide section to a long, low-angle 2" crack. Skirt right on incipient cracks and face to avoid some munge. Two bolt anchor. 5.11

P3: Traverse left into a dirty but perfect hand crack. Finish out a roof with a bolt. Gear belay on a ledge to the left of a bolted anchor (rap anchor) because it is more comfy and convenient. 5.11

3rd class and hiking to the top. We belayed the first bit on the way up and down because it is that creepy ball-bearing mossback shit like on the approach to Castleton. It feels like it could zip you right over the edge!

Three double roped raps get you down. Two of the anchors have webbing (something I regret) so you may want to bring some replacement webbing (or better yet, chains!)

As far as tower routes go, this one is pretty good. Maybe a small notch below Rimshot on Bridger Jack in quality. But keep in mind, it has only been done once and IS a tower route, so be ready for a little junk. The setting is pristine, however.


Location 

This route is on the north face (facing Davis Canyon) just right of the center of the wall. There are two larger corners that face opposite directions and form sort of a wide buttress at the tallest part of the wall--pretty clearly visible from the road. The route is just right of the right corner. Look for the first anchor about 80 feet up. I can't remember if we made a plaque, but I don't think so. Just approach from the Davis Canyon road, whichever way looks expedient. There is actually a USGS marker at the base of the wall. Those boys got around!


Protection 

Pretty standard tower rack to #4 Camalot, plus we used an old #5 Camalot.



Photos of The Undiscovered Country Slideshow Add Photo
The Undiscovered Country foreshortened.
The Undiscovered Country foreshortened.
The Undiscovered Country foreshortened.
The Undiscovered Country foreshortened.
David Goldstein on pitch three.
David Goldstein on pitch three.
Comments on The Undiscovered Country Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Oct 4, 2012

An excellent adventure climb to a rarely climbed ranked summit. Ours was probably the 2nd ascent of the formation.

Firming up the description:

The wall faces west.

P1: Start with a 30' low angle, shallow, right facing corner which takes small gear. Continue up chimney/slot and easy ground to a bolted anchor. ~50 5.9.

P2: The "short wide" section is actually about 100' of vertical #4 Camalots in a a somewhat sandy corner. The "long, low-angle crack" is about 50' long. Where the corner turns to very uninviting munge, about 10' below the anchor, delicately slab traverse straight right on sandy divots with virtually no hands, then up easily to the anchors. ~11c, 170'.
The #4 corner is very burly and was heroically sent by Jason Wells using a single #4 Camalot with about three or four supplemental pieces. (If memory serves, 2 #3 Camalots and 1 #5.) Most people would probably want at least 4 #4's. The low angle crack that follows is a a welcome respite but the the step across was tenuous, unnerving and felt like 5.11 but that could have been nerves.

P3: Start with the crux, 15' of extremely sandy, overhanging #3 Camalots. As the angle lessens, the crack narrows to #2 Camalots. Above you will find chimneying -- not hard, but care must be taken to avoid kicking any stones out of the bottom of the chimney as they could land on the belay. The bolted roof is about 5.9. ~150' (including ~50' of class two walking at the end of the pitch to find anchor rock). Maybe 11- at the start and a lot of that difficulty was attributable to the unprecedented amounts of sand lining the crack.

From the end of the third pitch, the path we took to the summit was circuitous but not traumatic. From the belay at the end of P3, walk climber's right from the belay, moving up the tiers at weaknesses until the far southern/right end of the summit cliffband is reached; from here an easy scramble reaches the summit plateau with the summit itself about 50 yards to the north.

By chris Kalous
Nov 26, 2012

Thanks for the better description, David. It was a long time ago! Didn't mean to sandbag.