|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Chris Kalous and Dan Gambino|
|Submitted By:||chris Kalous on Dec 22, 2006|
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By david goldstein
Oct 4, 2012
An excellent adventure climb to a rarely climbed ranked summit. Ours was probably the 2nd ascent of the formation.
Firming up the description:
The wall faces west.
P1: Start with a 30' low angle, shallow, right facing corner which takes small gear. Continue up chimney/slot and easy ground to a bolted anchor. ~50 5.9.
P2: The "short wide" section is actually about 100' of vertical #4 Camalots in a a somewhat sandy corner. The "long, low-angle crack" is about 50' long. Where the corner turns to very uninviting munge, about 10' below the anchor, delicately slab traverse straight right on sandy divots with virtually no hands, then up easily to the anchors. ~11c, 170'.
The #4 corner is very burly and was heroically sent by Jason Wells using a single #4 Camalot with about three or four supplemental pieces. (If memory serves, 2 #3 Camalots and 1 #5.) Most people would probably want at least 4 #4's. The low angle crack that follows is a a welcome respite but the the step across was tenuous, unnerving and felt like 5.11 but that could have been nerves.
P3: Start with the crux, 15' of extremely sandy, overhanging #3 Camalots. As the angle lessens, the crack narrows to #2 Camalots. Above you will find chimneying -- not hard, but care must be taken to avoid kicking any stones out of the bottom of the chimney as they could land on the belay. The bolted roof is about 5.9. ~150' (including ~50' of class two walking at the end of the pitch to find anchor rock). Maybe 11- at the start and a lot of that difficulty was attributable to the unprecedented amounts of sand lining the crack.
From the end of the third pitch, the path we took to the summit was circuitous but not traumatic. From the belay at the end of P3, walk climber's right from the belay, moving up the tiers at weaknesses until the far southern/right end of the summit cliffband is reached; from here an easy scramble reaches the summit plateau with the summit itself about 50 yards to the north.
By chris Kalous
Nov 26, 2012
|Thanks for the better description, David. It was a long time ago! Didn't mean to sandbag.|