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The Undeserved Area
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The Undeserved 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 973
Submitted By: John Bradford on Oct 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Di leading at the crux of The Undeserved.

Description 

A very good route, follows a crack system trending right through a couple of scary moves with so so pro then back left at the second break, around the corner and up to a big ledge.

Location 

Flake and crack with several obvious rock intrusions in the middle of the wall just right of the corner

Protection 

Cams, wires to protect the crux


Photos of The Undeserved Slideshow Add Photo
Me hanging out after the crux, trying not to fall ...
Me hanging out after the crux, trying not to fall ...

Comments on The Undeserved Add Comment
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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

"Scary moves with so so pro"? You can sew this thing up better than most NRG sport climbs with a set of stoppers, small TCU's and cams to 3". More strenuous but less technical than Remission. The upper dihedral is so nice.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Dec 6, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My first 5.10b/c trad. I was so pumped going into the crux, it wasn't even funny. So I placed a terrible tcu, climbed up and placed a terrible #1 camalot in the flared crack, then decided to just go for it and try not to fall. Luckily it worked out, but if it didn't, those cams probably wouldn't have held and a 30 footer was likely. Maybe I missed some bomber gear placements though...
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

PG-13 my ass. I had bomber gear the ENTIRE way up.