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The Undeserved Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Celibate Mallard T 
Mig Squadron T 
Never Cry Tuna T 
Roy's Lament T 
Tattoo S 
Undeserved, The T 
Wad Cutter S 

The Undeserved Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.05714, -81.05128 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,837
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007
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Chad setting up for the final crux on Tattoo. Phot...


This zone of Endless Wall is one of the nicest areas to bust out your trad rack. It hosts some really nice routes including The Undeserved, Back With My Kind, Cellibate Mallard, Roy's Lament, Hot Tuna, Tattoo and Lee Robinsons' bold direct start to The Underserved, Brisquet Back Direct.

It starts getting shade around 12 or 1 pm. It depends on the time of week or season to how crowded the area will be. The rock here, like he rest of Endless is of the finest of sandstone in the world.

Getting There 

You can approach this cliff the fastest by rappelling in from the top. When you see the first overlook sign on your left go to the edge of the cliff and skirt down a little chimney, eventually breaking left to a two bolt station (The Underserved anchors). Make sure you be careful not to kick any loose rock down below you. This approach requires a little exposed down climbing so be careful.

The recomended way is to approach from the Cirque, Jacobs Ladder or Honey Mooners Ladder.Again, it is imperitive you do not kick any loose rock down below you when rappelling in from above! Also make sure no one is leading up The Undeserved so you don't rap in on someone while they are on the sharp end.

Climbing Season

For the Endless Wall area.

Weather station 4.9 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Undeserved Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Undeserved Area:
Roy's Lament   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Undeserved   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 90'   
Celibate Mallard   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 90'   
Tattoo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Undeserved Area

Featured Route For The Undeserved Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth Turner stemming up the start.

Roy's Lament 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : The Undeserved Area
Start by stemming up the initial crack that leans slightly to the right. Lieback or handjam the vertical section of crack to the ledge. From the ledge continue up the obvious crack to a rightward traverse under the roof to the anchors of Celibate Mallard....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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