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The Unchaste 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Horn and Jeff Scheuerell
Page Views: 2,134
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010

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Mucci Man sending the Unchaste

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  • Description 

    This route starts with well protected face climbing that will keep you on your toes. The crux comes mid way on the first pitch with a second crux above a diorite band. The second pitch is easier but still challenging with mostly face climbing and a bit of crack near the pitches end. The last pitch is very easy but fun crack climbing.


    This route starts on the right arete of Parkline Pinnacle, right of The Chase.


    P1- 9or10 bolts plus a .75 Camalot to a bolted belay
    P2- 4 bolts, a fixed pin, and a small rack to a .75 Camalot(offset stoppers are nice to have)
    P3- small rack to a .75 Camalot

    Photos of The Unchaste Slideshow Add Photo
    Mucci Man on the lead. Whoop!
    Mucci Man on the lead. Whoop!
    Dan sending
    Dan sending

    Comments on The Unchaste Add Comment
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    By mucci
    From: sf ca
    Mar 11, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Just did the 1st Pitch, perfect edging and friction. Bolted where you need it, some gear toward the top while moving through the featured bulge.

    Simply awesome.
    By squiddo
    From: Mountain View, CA
    Apr 11, 2010

    Great route....I'd stay off the 3rd pitch though as the quality degrades significantly and I found no anchor.
    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Apr 21, 2010

    The last pitch is easy, 5.6 up obvious cracks. Most folks skip the last, so little traffic means the plants grow back in the crack. When the cracks end a little face climbing leads to a big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Not sure how it was missed. Using the anchors on this route is the most comfortable way of getting off Stone Quest as well.
    By Bonesaw
    From: CA
    Oct 8, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Climbed first 2 pitches... perfect slab route. Nice work Jeff.
    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Apr 25, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    climbed p1 and 2. Probably best route I climbed on Parkline so far.
    80m rope perfectly fit for both pitches to rap
    By Osprey Overhang
    From: ...
    Jan 7, 2012

    FA: Dave Horn, Jeff Scheuerell, 1995?
    By Jeff Scheuerell
    Feb 7, 2012

    I am making a few changes to this route. I moved the first pitch anchor down, now It can be done eaisily with one 70m rope. A 60 can work with a bit of easy downclimbing(tie a knot in the ends of your rope though).If you climb past the first anchor you will need 2 ropes. I may changing this.
    By Art Cormier
    Apr 26, 2012
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Top roped the first pitch durring light rain. not enough rain to effect friction but i was happy to be on toprope particularly at the crux. Feet pasted on slab and small edges for fingers i was lurred to the endge of the arette for better hands but returned back left for better feet.
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Nov 5, 2012
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I have one quick comment now that Jeff added a second anchor on the first pitch. Stopping at the first anchor is great if you only intend on climbing the first pitch and you want to lower/rap with a single 70 m rope. However, if you are going to continue upwards to the upper pitches, then climb to the second anchor on pitch one (it is only a few more bolts up). The reason I say this is that there is some solid 5.10 friction climbing immediately above the first anchor where if you fell (a real possibility), you would slam into your belayer. By climbing up to the second set of anchors, you alleviate this problem altogether and as an added bonus, the upper belay stance is much nicer.

    I was glad that I brought HB offsets for the second pitch; this made some of the nut placements super bomber.

    Great route by the way; thanks to Jeff and Josh for putting this one up.
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