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The Uncertainty Principle  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Schmeer, 10/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: AOSR on May 19, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: The Uncertainty Principle.
Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route went in ground up and is one of my favorite lines at Staunton. It's a little spicy and definitely heads up from the beginning through the crux. Before climbing it, I thought it might need a bolt or two, but it turned out to go completely on gear! Climb the steep face using the two seams for gear. Step right and climb slightly overhanging, fun moves to a left-angling hand crack (crux). Follow the crack system up to a short slab, pull a small bulge, head right, and pull a final bulge to find a bolted anchor below a tree at the top of the cliff.


Location 

After walking up past the severely overhanging section of The Dungeon, look for the seams that lead to two beautiful, black streaks.


Protection 

Rack to #3 Camalot.



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Just slightly overhanging.
Just slightly overhanging.
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