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At a crux and getting nasty, photo: Jesse Zacher.
Climb one pitch of 5.6 to the belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and huge belay space. Alternately you can access this from the top of The Pleasure Pillar. Rap from top to the right to the belay space.
This is a bouldery, overhanging crimp/sidepull/gaston festival. It is bouldery and sustained from bottom to top. Bring a 0.4 and 4 inch cam for the last 20 feet to the top up the fist crack.
The route is one pitch up and just a few feet to the right of Rowan's Arete in the overhanging gully. The route is to the right of The Pleasure Pillar. It always is in the shade.
Bolts, a couple of extended draws and 1 0.4 and 4 inch cam each. 2 bolt anchor at top.
Ben getting it on and Piz at the big belay ledge. ...
|Comments on The Unaweeper
|By rob pizem|
Nov 30, 2011
So, the route is close to the wall on the right. You could certainly stem through the first two bolts and then take a nice rest by stemming up higher. That is fine if you do that but not the way it was originally sent. Nor is it 13cish. I choose to climb the route without using the right side wall at any time. This is the most difficult way and the way that I envisioned the route.
It is possible, with a poor belay to get hurt in the middle crux, i.e. hit the wall behind you in a fall. Be careful, I extended the draw to prevent this from happening.
Lastly, there are two finishes to the route, the left one (which I have freed at 13c-ish) and the right one which I have not attempted yet. Feel free to get on it and send. Both routes are the Unaweeper, just with a different finish. I am sure that they will end up at the same grade. The holds are small and will shred your fingers on a hot day. Overall, it is one of my favorite climbs that I have established and a real beauty. Slightly overhanging and in your face and technical the entire way.
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 1, 2011
Nice work, Piz, looks rad!
|By Jesse Zacher|
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 1, 2011
Great rock and amazing sequences that slap you around. The slightly overhanging rock was a great find by the Piz. He knew what it was since the first time he laid eyes on it. Climbing the Pleasure Pillar was the reconnaissance mission.