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Cave Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cro-Magnons From Space T 
Main Vein, The T,S 
Pleasure Pillar, The T 
Rowan's Arete S 
Unaweeper, The S 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 S 
Unknown 3/ Unknown 3 Variation T 

The Unaweeper 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Rob Pizem
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 1,857
Submitted By: rob pizem on Nov 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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At a crux and getting nasty, photo: Jesse Zacher.

Description 

Climb one pitch of 5.6 to the belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and huge belay space. Alternately you can access this from the top of The Pleasure Pillar. Rap from top to the right to the belay space.

This is a bouldery, overhanging crimp/sidepull/gaston festival. It is bouldery and sustained from bottom to top. Bring a 0.4 and 4 inch cam for the last 20 feet to the top up the fist crack.


Location 

The route is one pitch up and just a few feet to the right of Rowan's Arete in the overhanging gully. The route is to the right of The Pleasure Pillar. It always is in the shade.


Protection 

Bolts, a couple of extended draws and 1 0.4 and 4 inch cam each. 2 bolt anchor at top.



Photos of The Unaweeper Slideshow Add Photo
Ben getting it on and Piz at the big belay ledge. Photo: Jesse Zacher.
Ben getting it on and Piz at the big belay ledge. ...
Comments on The Unaweeper Add Comment
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By rob pizem
Nov 30, 2011

So, the route is close to the wall on the right. You could certainly stem through the first two bolts and then take a nice rest by stemming up higher. That is fine if you do that but not the way it was originally sent. Nor is it 13cish. I choose to climb the route without using the right side wall at any time. This is the most difficult way and the way that I envisioned the route.
It is possible, with a poor belay to get hurt in the middle crux, i.e. hit the wall behind you in a fall. Be careful, I extended the draw to prevent this from happening.
Lastly, there are two finishes to the route, the left one (which I have freed at 13c-ish) and the right one which I have not attempted yet. Feel free to get on it and send. Both routes are the Unaweeper, just with a different finish. I am sure that they will end up at the same grade. The holds are small and will shred your fingers on a hot day. Overall, it is one of my favorite climbs that I have established and a real beauty. Slightly overhanging and in your face and technical the entire way.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 1, 2011

Nice work, Piz, looks rad!

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 1, 2011

Great rock and amazing sequences that slap you around. The slightly overhanging rock was a great find by the Piz. He knew what it was since the first time he laid eyes on it. Climbing the Pleasure Pillar was the reconnaissance mission.

By Dave Cummings
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 14, 2012

That's rad!