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The Ultimates
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The Ultimator 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darren Mabe FFA: Eric Deschamps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 942
Submitted By: Eric D on Aug 4, 2013

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Casey Niggemyer in the business.


An excellent offwidth. A big thanks to Darren Mabe for cleaning and prepping routes and then opening them to the community. The anchors are located on the first ledge on the right side of the crack, about 70 feet up.


About 40 feet right of Ultimate Dihedral. An obvious overhanging offwidth with a bolt on it. From Ultimate Finger Crack walk downstream for about 10 minutes. Before the canyon bends left take a look on the left wall.


1 bolt, 2 BD #6s, single set .5-1 camalots. Walk the 6s and keep one with you after the overhanging bit.

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By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Aug 4, 2013

This route was thought to be harder by a number of people and may settle in harder than 11c. With my beta 5.11c feels accurate though get on it and post what you think!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Impressive work on the FFA, Eric! Wish I could have seen it go down!

I originally thought this battle would graze 5.12 if not for a few thank-God jugs at its steepest part. Desperate chicken-wings, brutal rattly fist stacks, and crafty leg work will see you through. The protection bolt is convenient at the crux to keep the rope out of your way as you take the tipped #6 for a walk.

Add this one to the local o-dubya circuit!
By aschwartz
Sep 13, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a


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