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The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket

Select Route:
Brown Nosing T 
Pumphouse Primer T 
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 
Twist of Fate T 
Ultimate Dihedral T 
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 
Ultimate Finger Crack T 
Ultimate Frisbee T 
Ultimate OW T 
Ultimator, The T 
White Wedding T 
Young Guns T 

The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket  


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Location: 35.0353, -111.7152 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,781
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike on Jul 14, 2009
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Description 

Tributary canyon to Oak Creek Canyon, offers many sandstone sport and trad routes. *Info submitted by markguycan.*

Getting There 

Easiest entrance is from the top of Ultimate Frisbee. Exit I-17 at Newman Park, drive about 2miles then turn Right, follow this trek about a mile til the canyon is in view. Park at cairns and hike 0.07mi to the rap station at: N35*02.158 W111*42.825. *Info contributed by markguycan.*

Also accessible from the bottom of switch backs on 89a. Start as for the Lower Pumphouse routes, but hike & boulder hop up-canyon an extra 30 minutes or so.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket:
Young Guns   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 70'   
Teddy Bear's Picnic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Pumphouse Primer   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Ultimate Dihedral   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
White Wedding   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Ultimate Finger Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   
Browse More Classics in The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket

Featured Route For The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket
A classic Dugald Bremner shot of Tim Coats repeating his mid-80's testpiece Ultimate Finger Crack.

Ultimate Finger Crack 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke...
splitter finger tips to small hands up a steep smooth wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket Slideshow Add Photo
Route topo and my secret passage approach into the Ultimates from Newman Park exit of I-17. The log noted north of the parking (.8mi on 253G) is not there anymore though there is usually a cairn. If you are under powerlines you went too far. When hiking down the hill, aim for the 'treenis' off to your right (drawn on map) and faint trail will appear. Not all routes shown.
BETA PHOTO: Route topo and my secret passage approach into the...
Hike upstream from UFC and you will find this route on the right just around the corner from the overhanging swooping white/orange wall.  This is right before the canyon opens up and before James Canyon's mouth. <br /> <br />Route is on east side facing north.  Crack to 5 bolts. <br /> <br />Any info? <br /> <br />There are also three bolted face climbs up the grey slab climber's left of this route in the photo.  They all face north as well and are in a gully.  They look good!
BETA PHOTO: Hike upstream from UFC and you will find this rout...
A beautiful Sendtember day in the Ultimates. Ultimate Finger Crack is located on the right wall of the big slot. The steep splitter is Twist of Fate, and continues in the wide corner above. <br />Photo: Jacob Dolence
A beautiful Sendtember day in the Ultimates. Ultim...
another fine fall day down in mexican pocket
another fine fall day down in mexican pocket
from left to right: Ultimate OW, Ultimate Dihedral, and the Ultimator. Artec climbing UD. Photo taken from Young Guns.
BETA PHOTO: from left to right: Ultimate OW, Ultimate Dihedral...

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