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Fortress Wall
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Turret, The 
Where Lizards Dare 

The Turret 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: George Robinson, Martin Hackworth 1983
Season: Any
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010
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Description 

There are a few variation, but the most straight forward and pure line is to follow the wide crack in the NE dihedral that starts on a ledge partway up the saddle between the Turret proper and the main wall. Climb the wide crack to the face above. Protects better than it looks from below. The crux is the summit move.

You can start anywhere on the slab or short cracks on the saddle and then step over to the upper face. Popular area for beginners.


Location 

Walk left from Snake as if you were heading for Bedtime for Bonzo. Just before the trail passes under an airy roof scramble up to a vegetated ledge under a featured slab.

The most feasible route climbs the wide crack between the saddle and the pinnacle proper.

Rappel from a small tree. You may need to leave slings to pull your rope.


Protection 

Middle sized gear. There are some horizontals on the upper face that will take #0.75 - 2 Camalots.



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