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Climb the somewhat strenuous corner to some good knobs. Climb the knobs to the blank section of the corner. Use tubing, the mixture of corner and chimney technique to get through this blank section. There is a good hold as a reward at the end of the crux. The fall at the crux is not the cleanest, but as far as the 5.11s go in the Valley, this one is on the easier side.
Sweet looking right facing corner in the middle of Pat and Jack Pinnacle area, about 30 feet right of Underclingon, the bolted underclinging traverse.
Standard rack with some small gear for the crux (blue alien can be placed right after the blank crux section, yellow or some nuts right before).
|By Scott Bennett|
Oct 1, 2009
Good climb. If you have the technique dialed, it's pretty chill, but if not, you'll have to pull hard. I thought the pro was OK, but I know of at least one good climber that got hurt badly on this climb. Climb safe.
Jan 7, 2010
Keep your right shoulder pasted to the rock throughout the crux. This and your left foot in opposition are what holds you in. Don't extend upward to reach the hold after the crux or your shoulder will pop off and so will you.
|By Chris I|
From: Fresno, CA
Oct 11, 2011
Beware of wasps around the anchor of this climb. In warm weather they come out in force, and my buddy was being harassed by them pretty badly. The same afternoon another climber came off the climb with more than 6 stings.
|By Linnea Williams|
Oct 24, 2011
Yes, there are wasps at the top of this route. Beware! My partner was stung 30x while trying to clean the anchor. They started stinging her after she had already untied to rap. Scary stuff. Otherwise, it's a great route.
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 12, 2012
This climb is actually in a left facing corner.
|By Austin Archer|
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013
What Osprey said! haha..I took a couple of really good whippers on this when I was chipping teeth with this grade. Really fun climb once you get the sequence dialed.