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The first route up Tahquitz, and one of the easiest. Three long pitches of cracks and chimneys. Belay 1 near end of rope at decent stance. Belays 2 and 3 are from large trees. The last pitch is a short friction pitch up to the top. A great climb to get into the multi-pitch groove.
A few other climbs start from Pine Tree Ledge (Belay #2).
Head straight above Lunch Rock (around left side) to the base of the cliff. Head left onto ledges. The obvious break between the West Face Bulge and the West Face is the climb. Rope up at the ledge and head up and left to gain The Trough. Climb then diagonals up and right.
Mostly medium gear. Lots of stuff in the 1-3 Camalot range. Slings for trees. A competent climber can get away with a minimal rack.
Looking upo the trough toward Piton Pooper (5.7+) ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of the Trough.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the first pitch of the Trough
The final bit of friction to the top. With my frie...
We opted to stray away from the direct line up the...
BETA PHOTO: Alternate start: left side splitter crack and sque...
|By Mar' Himmerich|
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 25, 2008
My first route on the Big Stone. In the winter, this is a great ice climb! Bring a couple baby angles and LAs for the pitch after the tree.
|By Pat C|
May 3, 2009
First lead ever.
|By Steve W Smith|
From: Groveland, CA
Jul 1, 2010
This is a great first lead route.
For it's rating it's fun enough with a few challenges to keep your interest. The friction descent is common sense route finding to get you back down. I was concerned until I saw and did it.
|By The Gray Tradster|
Jul 1, 2010
For a bit of historical perspective,
This climb was the original definition of 5.0
|By Dean Olson|
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c
So it was my first trip up there and I was looking for the shoes that were still on my feet. I finally realized this after a few minutes and the guy doing Jam Crack right next to us, with a glint of knowing in his eye, says, "Sounds like it's gonna be a REALLY good adventure."
Fun climb, anyone could do it high.
|By Josh Cameron|
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
I remember climbing this several years back and I'm sitting at the first belay and I see Michael Reardon soloing Piton Pooper. He made it look like a walk in the park. About five minutes later I'm still at the first belay and he's downclimbing The Trough. We talked for a couple minutes (I gave him the whole "Oh my gosh, your Michael Reardon!" treatment) and when I leaned to the side to let him by he told me to stay put because he was in my way! He downclimbed past me again at the second belay and we talked some more. He had such a humble and mellow manner about him. He was truly inspiring, not just for how he climbed but for how he treated a guy who was using gear to climb UP what he was soloing down.
Jul 31, 2011
Rack: I was fine with a set of nuts and 6 cams between 0.3 and 4. Also long slings to reduce ropedrag and belay of trees.
Communication on pitch 3 is hard/impossible if you go the full 50 meters to the big tree (start of 4th class).
Sep 23, 2011
soloing is such a personal experience, i just don't get how one can recommend any climb as a great first freesolo. pretty slow times you posted too... just trying to figure out how any of this free solo info is relevent. forums are great place to spray...
|By Jim Dover|
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Sep 24, 2011
First multi-pitch a year ago and first lead with a less experienced climber today. The second pitch seems...awkward and harder in places than I remembered. Maybe the pressure of the day today. Still a stellar day and a stellar climb.
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
Easier than 5.4 and never exposed, it would be an excellent first lead. It should be mentioned that the final pitch goes up behind the big pine tree.
|By Art Tom|
From: Valencia, CA
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c PG13
This was my first lead as well, did it way back in 88. Very enjoyable and clean.
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
May 25, 2012
First time on this route. Led the 1st 2 pitches on 4.10.12. There were snow and some areas on the 2nd pitch was wet. Super fun!!
|By david doucette|
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Just climbed this today, 5.12.13 (did it a couple of time a few years ago). Route is nice and dry with a couple of wet spots deep in some of the cracks. Great intro for tahquitz. There are a couple of challenging moves for its rating;
1. Second Pitch - coming out of the 1st belay. protectable but awkward. takes gear well.
2. Third pitch - offwidth midway thru. difficult first move to get in the offwidth.
3. Fourth Pitch - going above of pine tree ledge (perfect place for lunch BTW), some face moves with minimal protection. One or two committing moves here but then protectable.
For a new leader, this is not a cakewalk but very protectable and enjoyable.
From: San Diego, California
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Easily 3 pitches by combining pitches 3 and 4 but it becomes very difficult to hear.