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The Triad
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By Quino Gonzalez
Aug 26, 2014
There is little to recommend about this climb when it comes to quality, but it is located in a spectacular area with incredible views. Besides, you won't be seeing people, even though the approach is relatively short and not particularly strenuous.
I went there with a client on a three day trip. We used the Hidden Lake Trail, and then followed a climbers trail to gain the Hidden Peaks Ridge. We followed the ridge due north-east and camped right above a gully where next day we descended into the basin below the Triad, to the south-east of the campsite. There is little information about this peak, and the fact that my client, Katherine Baillie, had been in the area before and has great route finding skills made the approach much easier. Once on the basin the route becomes more clear and a few options present themselves to access the ridge that takes you to the top of the middle tower. We got to the lowest point of the ridge, between the middle and the east towers, and followed it as possible, even though we had to go around some of the towers before regaining the ridge. The rock is of very poor quality and is very difficult to build anchors. There is plenty of dirt and loose rock on the way. We had to use extreme caution on this terrain even though the climbing is never harder than class 4. We found old slings on the ridge, probably a rappel station, but they were around a rock that moved. I wouldn't use it to rap. The ascend is fun but delicate given the quality of the rock. From the top, you can see the ridge that connects The Triad with El Dorado. All in all, it was a good adventure in an area that doesn't seem to be visited with frequency.
The Triad from The east
The Triad from
The east

Top of the middle tower
Top of the middle tower

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