The Trap Dike and the North face of Gothics are THE classic winter mountaineering ascents in the Adirondacks. Though most parties will only rope up for a couple for a couple of pitches, the Trap Dike provides a fun, exposed, and fairly continuous line directly to the summit of Mt Colden.
From the base of the dike, climb one pitch of stepped ice(usually). The belay used to be just above the ice on some fixed tat from bushes/trees. I am not sure if the belay is still there since Irene*. After the first pitch, hike some low-angled snow to the next obvious steep step. This pitch is shorter than the first but is usually the crux of the route.
- -If anybody has information on this please comment.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Trap Dike from the middle of Avalanche ...
One of the lower ice bulges.
Skiing back down to the first rappel.
|By Auto-X Fil|
From: NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
May 25, 2011
In early season, the ice climbing can be long and fun. But later in the year, the Dike will fill in and it'll be mostly a snow climb - but bring a second tool just in case.
The Dike itself is great, with some steep front-pointing cruxes. The slabs are a long, brutal hike with serious exposure (bring protection if the slabs are hard/icy!) but well worth the summit.
And, to top it all off, the ski tour into Avalanche Lake is second to none. If you've got the skills to descend Colden on planks, this might be the best moderate ski mountaineering objective in the Daks. Even with a hike/glissade/rap down the dike, the ski tour+solo up was probably my finest day in the mountains. The approach and route are five-star, and fun in nearly any conditions except avy danger.
|By Matt Glue|
From: Dillon, CO
Dec 6, 2011
Irene took out all vegetation in the dike. Don't expect any tree anchors.
|By apeman e|
Dec 14, 2011
The belay is gone.
|By Dave Schultz|
From: Everett, Washington
Apr 19, 2012
Skied the route from the summit in early March, there were no fixed anchors, we made v-threads for every rappel.