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The Training Grounds

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Luck S 
First Blood T 
Learning Curve S 
Passing the Baton S 
Practice Run S 
Thunder T 
Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep S 
Whole Lotta Sober T 

The Training Grounds Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Oct 11, 2010
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The Training Grounds is located in the lower west valley of the Devil's Head area. It contains 6 routes at present, all easier than 5.10. The wall faces east which provides morning sun or afternoon shade. The wall is about 50' high and well featured with chickenheads and incut holds. This is a great place for the novice leader.

Getting There 

Park at the regular fire tower trailhead. Hike the trail to just before the bridge and pass behind a log fence onto another trail on the right. This is the old trail to the fire tower. After hiking approximately ten minutes, and after a big switchback, look for a another trail on the right which heads south. This trail is marked by some cairins and logs. Another 5 minutes of hiking will take you up over a pass. From here, the trail descends to the south. A fork marked with signs pointing to the Training Grounds to the right and Chickenhead Ranch to the left will soon be reached. Head to the right, uphill, on a trail marked with cairins. The Training Grounds will be on your left. After reaching a level pass head left, next to the rock, to the start of the routes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Training Grounds

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Training Grounds:
Beginner's Luck   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Passing the Baton   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Learning Curve   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Training Grounds

Featured Route For The Training Grounds
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the route at the first bolt.

Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : The Training Grounds
This fine little climb is just to the right of Whole Lotta Sober. Climb up through two small roofs with the crux at the second roof. The rock is well featured and the climbing is mostly easier than 5.9 with a short crux. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Training Grounds Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Early crowd.
Early crowd.
Rock Climbing Photo: Training Ground from Chicken Head Ranch.
Training Ground from Chicken Head Ranch.
Rock Climbing Photo: If not for the routes, the Training Grounds boast ...
If not for the routes, the Training Grounds boast ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Training Grounds from Ravenslab.
The Training Grounds from Ravenslab.
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the sign.
BETA PHOTO: Follow the sign.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Perkins absorbs the possibilities on a blue-...
Chris Perkins absorbs the possibilities on a blue-...

Comments on The Training Grounds Add Comment
Show which comments
By fran
Aug 2, 2011
THANK YOU to whoever provided the signs. Though the trail is quite clear, they made me much happier.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
May 27, 2012
This crag has a nice base area and surprisingly steep and high-quality rock for a wall of moderates. Recommended.
By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Jun 4, 2012
Nope. The raptor closure is on the far east side of the mountain and does not include anything in the guidebook.
By Chris Ilg
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2014
During summer, Training Ground is in the sun in the morning (hot) and shaded in the afternoon (cooler).
By Jake Barney
Aug 23, 2015
The "Getting There" beta is very good, we had no trouble finding the crag. However some of the time/distance estimates seem a bit long: total hike in for us was about 25 minutes, out in 20. Beautiful hike through an aspen forest on an easy to follow trail.

We were a little confused as we found a couple of sport routes on the back-side of The Training Grounds before finding the main wall. Considerably steeper and in the morning shade.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 23, 2015
The rock on the opposite side of the Training Ground is Scooter Trash Wall.

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