The Trad's Nest 

can i get some more details please?

I try to keep my mouth shut when it comes to retro-bolting at rumney but i must this route needed bolts like sharks need scuba lessons... i had gear with me so i skipped the bolts in favor of gear... It was super well protected, i have no idea how this could be pg13 while cliping the bolts...

anyway... since there is no description for the route... try this... climb easy moves to the first bolt and a stance... Climb moderate crack moves (really fun!) to one longish move to a good crack hold and on to a good horizontal... move left and make an fun mantel move so you are standing on easy rock... walk up and right to the anchor...

Lee I agree this had great natural protection although I clipped the bolts it does not make sense that this got bolted. It is a really fun route though!

I wish this style crack went on for at least another 20 ft. Nice movements along the whole way.

Maybe it's just because I'm tall, but if you told me this climb was 5.7, I would believe you. The crack moves are fun though. And while I wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt, I dont think I would call it pg13.

I think Dave enjoyed climbing this route on natural gear, but went back and retroed it thinking that nobody would climb it otherwise. It is only very recent that Rumney has seen a bit of a resurgence of people doing the trad routes beyond the very obvious ones like Black Jack Crack.

I climbed this one gear the other day and I agree it does protect very well. And is a fun short trad lead.