Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
The Trad Warrior
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Lower Mill Creek
|
Axis of Evil T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Fox Trot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Genetic Denial T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Hasta La Vista T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Out of Africa T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Paper Crane, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Petrified Feline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Poqito Negro T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Real Talk T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Sexy Beast S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Silver Back T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Trad Warrior, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Walk The Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Wild Kingdom T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Tom Gilje - 1995 |
| Page Views: | 3,822 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on May 8, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Trad Warrior is a route that has ascended into notoriety amongst Moab locals: Rumor has it that climbers across the canyon watched as Tom Gilje took repeated, enormous whippers while putting up this route on lead. Because of this, Gilje's reputation, and probably a fair bit of exaggeration, I had heard that it quite possibly hadn't received a second ascent. Certainly there are plenty of climbers capable of walking up to this thing and onsighting it, but given that I'm a pretty big chicken, I spent a day on it TR solo before my ascent on lead.
Surprisingly, given the name, the route has ten bolts... but if you don't bring a few finger- and hand-size pieces, you're going to be hating life. Even so, there is potential to sprain an ankle here or there, but overall the route is quite safe. Kudos to Gilje for his vision and impeccable style in establishing this amazing pitch.
The Trad Warrior climbs up a gently overhanging panel of orange water-streaked rock and is rather isolated from the other main Mill Creek areas. Access is from above: fix a line to rap down to a spacious belay ledge two hundred feet off the canyon floor, and take a lead line with you. Climb up fairly easy rock to a first crux move stepping left. Good rests lead up to a second crux sequence above a short hand crack. Above this is another marginal rest, followed by a deceptive traverse left, a good shake, and a techy crux sequence up a beautiful black seam. This is followed by another good rest and finally some rad bear-hugging to the top-out on the rim.
This is a great route but may need some brushing as it doesn't see much traffic. Gilje didn't rate it, and no moves are probably harder than V4/5, but I thought overall it was a tad harder redpoint than The Wasp in RMNP, but with a similar tech style, so I'll call it 12+ here and give Tom Gilje, whose routes I enjoy, a big "thank you" for his many climbing treasures.
Surprisingly, given the name, the route has ten bolts... but if you don't bring a few finger- and hand-size pieces, you're going to be hating life. Even so, there is potential to sprain an ankle here or there, but overall the route is quite safe. Kudos to Gilje for his vision and impeccable style in establishing this amazing pitch.
The Trad Warrior climbs up a gently overhanging panel of orange water-streaked rock and is rather isolated from the other main Mill Creek areas. Access is from above: fix a line to rap down to a spacious belay ledge two hundred feet off the canyon floor, and take a lead line with you. Climb up fairly easy rock to a first crux move stepping left. Good rests lead up to a second crux sequence above a short hand crack. Above this is another marginal rest, followed by a deceptive traverse left, a good shake, and a techy crux sequence up a beautiful black seam. This is followed by another good rest and finally some rad bear-hugging to the top-out on the rim.
This is a great route but may need some brushing as it doesn't see much traffic. Gilje didn't rate it, and no moves are probably harder than V4/5, but I thought overall it was a tad harder redpoint than The Wasp in RMNP, but with a similar tech style, so I'll call it 12+ here and give Tom Gilje, whose routes I enjoy, a big "thank you" for his many climbing treasures.
Photos
- No Photos -
3 Comments