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 ADVANCED
The Trad Lands

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alan's Seam S 
Big O Flyer S 
BM Route S 
Chimney Crack T,TR 
Chopless T,TR 
Corn Flake T,TR 
Dihedral TR 
Liar Liar T,TR 
Line It Up T 
Little Ox S 
Meat is Murder T 
Mindless 
Oxymoron T,TR 
Passerby 
Resident Bush S 
Startled S 
Tootsie Roll S 
Traditions T 
Under The Table S 
Unknown T 
Unknown Chimney to Crack T,TR 
UnNamed S 
X It S 

The Trad Lands  


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Location: 39.76849, -105.21835 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,856
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001
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Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

In the Spring of 2001, Alan Nelson added about a dozen or so lines in this area. Note, many of these lines may have been climbed by at least the late 1980s. Most of the climbs are under 70 feet in length, and most of these are moderate in difficulty falling within the range of 5.7 to 5.10. Presently there is a rough 50:50 split between trad and bolted routes, so if you are looking for several fine 5.8/5.9 trad pitches, this is a great spot. The rock quality is overall very good and the bolting generous. The trad pitches mostly have double-bolt lowering stations, sometimes shared with an adjacent bolted line. Good sun and fun climbing to be had in this new area.

Routes from L->R:

Passerby, V easy.

A. Little Ox, 7+, 1p, 30' or 50', bolts.
B. Oxymoron, 6, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Big O Flyer, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Line It Up, 7, 1p, gear.
E. X It, 9, 1p, 50', bolts. Roof.
F. Startled, 8 or 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Unknown Chimney to Crack, 8+, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
H. Liar Liar, 8 or 10- or 7, 1p, gear; slab to crack to RFD.
I. Resident Bush, 9, 1p, 48', bolts.
J. Traditions, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
K. Chopless, 8-, 1p, 60', gear.
L. Corn Flake, 8- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

Under The Table area

M. BM Route, 7 or 10, 1p, 60', bolts; "BM".
N. Tootsie Roll, 7+, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Dihedral, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', TR.
P. Under the Table, 10 or 11, 1p, 40', bolts. Tan slab.
Q. Chimney Crack, 6, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
R. Alan's Seam, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
S. Meat is Murder, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
T. Mindless, V-easy R.
U. Unknown, 10, 1p, 60', gear.

Unnamed, 5.10-, 1p, bolts; ?location.

Getting There 

Just follow the trail west to the Mind Mantle Arete and the detached boulder at its base. The climbing starts just to the west of the arete/boulder and continues west to the wash that provides an easy approach to the top.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',7],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Trad Lands:
Liar Liar   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
X It   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Alan's Seam   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Trad Lands

Featured Route For The Trad Lands
Resident Bush and Traditions.  Bolt count in photo...

Resident Bush 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Golden : ... : The Trad Lands
Start in an alcove with a shallow corner on the left with a scratchy bush growing out of it. Clip the first bolt (just right of the bush), then figure out how to climb past or over the foliage without getting entangled and scratched. Please do not remove the shrub - it was there first, and it is possible (albeit inobvious) to climb past it without getting thrashed. Continue on up the arete and face above to a ledge on top. The anchors are on the wall above the ledge, and are easily accessibl...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Trad Lands
Comments on The Trad Lands Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Redosh
Nov 17, 2002
These climbs are popular because they are moderate. However, it is tough to figure out which climb is which from the descriptions on the website.
By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Feb 6, 2003
My brother, friends, and I climbed a ton of gear routes here in the late '80s, especially in the 7 to 10 range. I would think it is a bit sketchy claiming an FA on a mid-range gear route at Table Top these days.
By Dave J
Nov 18, 2008
Thanks to everyone who helped fix the gully between this area and the MBA area at the trail day last weekend. It looks WAY better (and I didn't send any loose rocks down it while hiking through it). Kudos to Fixed Pin Publishing and the Access Fund for organizing that.
By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
May 31, 2012
Kudos to Free Press Publishing for providing a FREE online guide to N Table mountain! Products like this take MP beyond the guidebook! Just open the pictures and print them! I think that I will print out free guides and make them available at the CSM climbing gym.
By Dave J
Jun 1, 2012
Bill, you just trying to start shit again? Your messiah just got his ass handed to him on the forums about his malicious intent behind creating these things. People should feel free to print them but should know two things: 1.) These photo topos have errors in them, so use with caution (this is standard for a Tod Anderson production). 2.) Money from guidebook sales of the Haas/Schneider book go back into Table Mountain to help pay for the dumpster, the toilet, the parking, the trails, and updating hardware.