The Trad Lands  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  15,229. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue 82° | 55° 82° | 54° 82° | 48° 81° | 45° 84° | 46°

Trad Lands area.

Description 

In the Spring of 2001, Alan Nelson added about a dozen or so lines in this area. Note, many of these lines may have been climbed by at least the late 1980s. Most of the climbs are under 70 feet in length, and most of these are moderate in difficulty falling within the range of 5.7 to 5.10. Presently there is a rough 50:50 split between trad and bolted routes, so if you are looking for several fine 5.8/5.9 trad pitches, this is a great spot. The rock quality is overall very good and the bolting generous. The trad pitches mostly have double-bolt lowering stations, sometimes shared with an adjacent bolted line. Good sun and fun climbing to be had in this new area.

Routes from L->R:

Passerby, V easy.

A. Little Ox, 7+, 1p, 30' or 50', bolts.
B. Oxymoron, 6, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Big O Flyer, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Line It Up, 7, 1p, gear.
E. X It, 9, 1p, 50', bolts. Roof.
F. Startled, 8 or 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Unknown Chimney to Crack, 8+, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
H. Liar Liar, 8 or 10- or 7, 1p, gear; slab to crack to RFD.
I. Resident Bush, 9, 1p, 48', bolts.
J. Traditions, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
K. Chopless, 8-, 1p, 60', gear.
L. Corn Flake, 8- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

Under The Table area

M. BM Route, 7 or 10, 1p, 60', bolts; "BM".
N. Tootsie Roll, 7+, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Dihedral, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', TR.
P. Under the Table, 10 or 11, 1p, 40', bolts. Tan slab.
Q. Chimney Crack, 6, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
R. Alan's Seam, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
S. Meat is Murder, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
T. Mindless, V-easy R.
U. Unknown, 10, 1p, 60', gear.

Unnamed, 5.10-, 1p, bolts; ?location.

Getting There 

Just follow the trail west to the Mind Mantle Arete and the detached boulder at its base. The climbing starts just to the west of the arete/boulder and continues west to the wash that provides an easy approach to the top.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Trad Lands

Startled 5.10a  CO : Golden : ... : The Trad Lands

This route tackles the buttress just right of "X It". The crux is a boulder problem right off the ground past the first bolt, with a unique flange pinch for the left hand. Once you are standing on the flange you can move left and up along cracks, flakes, and face to a big ledge. Clip the last bolt on "X It" but climb holds to the right to a shared anchor at the top of the wall. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Trad Lands Slideshow

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The crux area of Liar, Liar.