|The Trad Lands
|Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>|
In the Spring of 2001, Alan Nelson added about a dozen or so lines in this area. Note, many of these lines may have been climbed by at least the late 1980s. Most of the climbs are under 70 feet in length, and most of these are moderate in difficulty falling within the range of 5.7 to 5.10. Presently there is a rough 50:50 split between trad and bolted routes, so if you are looking for several fine 5.8/5.9 trad pitches, this is a great spot. The rock quality is overall very good and the bolting generous. The trad pitches mostly have double-bolt lowering stations, sometimes shared with an adjacent bolted line. Good sun and fun climbing to be had in this new area.
Routes from L->R:
Passerby, V easy.
A. Little Ox, 7+, 1p, 30' or 50', bolts.
B. Oxymoron, 6, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Big O Flyer, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Line It Up, 7, 1p, gear.
E. X It, 9, 1p, 50', bolts. Roof.
F. Startled, 8 or 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Unknown Chimney to Crack, 8+, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
H. Liar Liar, 8 or 10- or 7, 1p, gear; slab to crack to RFD.
I. Resident Bush, 9, 1p, 48', bolts.
J. Traditions, 9, 1p, 50', gear.
K. Chopless, 8-, 1p, 60', gear.
L. Corn Flake, 8- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.
Under The Table area
M. BM Route, 7 or 10, 1p, 60', bolts; "BM".
N. Tootsie Roll, 7+, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Dihedral, 10 or 11, 1p, 50', TR.
P. Under the Table, 10 or 11, 1p, 40', bolts. Tan slab.
Q. Chimney Crack, 6, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
R. Alan's Seam, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
S. Meat is Murder, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
T. Mindless, V-easy R.
U. Unknown, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
Unnamed, 5.10-, 1p, bolts; ?location.
Just follow the trail west to the Mind Mantle Arete and the detached boulder at its base. The climbing starts just to the west of the arete/boulder and continues west to the wash that provides an easy approach to the top.
23 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Trad Lands
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Trad Lands:
Liar Liar 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
X It 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Alan's Seam 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Trad Lands
Tootsie Roll 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CO
: ... : The Trad Lands
This is the climb immediately left of Under the Table. It goes up a narrow buttress that looks like two Tootsie Rolls side by side. I don't know the real name of the climb, but I'm calling it Tootsie Roll in preference to "Unknown 5.8".Locate the smooth tan slab of Under the Table, and go 20' left to find the start of Tootsie Roll.Climb 25' up easy rock to the first bolt. Continue up the buttress to the top.Nothing special, but an OK warm-up climb....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for The Trad Lands
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Doug Redosh|
Nov 17, 2002
These climbs are popular because they are moderate. However, it is tough to figure out which climb is which from the descriptions on the website.
|By richard berk|
From: Denver, CO
Feb 6, 2003
My brother, friends, and I climbed a ton of gear routes here in the late '80s, especially in the 7 to 10 range. I would think it is a bit sketchy claiming an FA on a mid-range gear route at Table Top these days.
|By Dave J|
Nov 18, 2008
Thanks to everyone who helped fix the gully between this area and the MBA area at the trail day last weekend. It looks WAY better (and I didn't send any loose rocks down it while hiking through it). Kudos to Fixed Pin Publishing and the Access Fund for organizing that.
|By Bill Ballace|
May 31, 2012
Kudos to Free Press Publishing for providing a FREE online guide to N Table mountain! Products like this take MP beyond the guidebook! Just open the pictures and print them! I think that I will print out free guides and make them available at the CSM climbing gym.
|By Dave J|
Jun 1, 2012
Bill, you just trying to start shit again? Your messiah just got his ass handed to him on the forums about his malicious intent behind creating these things. People should feel free to print them but should know two things: 1.) These photo topos have errors in them, so use with caution (this is standard for a Tod Anderson production). 2.) Money from guidebook sales of the Haas/Schneider book go back into Table Mountain to help pay for the dumpster, the toilet, the parking, the trails, and updating hardware.