The Tooth - South Face  5.4

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II Consensus:  5.4 [details] FA:  Charles Hazelhurst and C. G. Morrison - 1916 Season:  Summer Submitted By:  Tits McGee on Mar 17, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Tooth

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Parking MORE INFO >>> A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. In addition, during the winter you can only park at the highest lot if you have an Alpental skiing tag on your car. You will have to park at a lower lot and walk up, if you don't have the tag. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Approach:
Summer - Hike up the main trail, until a sign designating the start of the Source Lake Overlook trail. Take this trail, which avoids losing elevation, to the valley to the south below the east face of The Tooth. There is a good climbers path with cairns to guide you.

Winter - Hike up the main trail all the way to Source Lake, then turn south in the valley. Hike up the valley until below the east face of The Tooth. Do not follow the summer path, since there is significant avalanche danger there.

The final approach involves scrambling up to the notch one south of Pineapple Pass then contouring around clockwise to get to the start of the climb. A direct scramble up to Pineapple Pass is not recommended, as this is the rappel route. The final portion of the contour around involves some class 3 to 4 scrambling, but it is short and unexposed. Some parties have elected to do a running belay here, but it is not necessary.

Protection 

Light Alpine Rack - up to #3 Camalot

Photos of The Tooth - South Face Slideshow

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starting the link up of the first two pitches	leading up the second pitch - possibly the best mo...	BETA PHOTO: South face is the left side of the Tooth in this p...
BETA PHOTO: Half-way up third pitch (looking down).	Bret on the last move before the summit	Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13
View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 view...	Early Morning view of The Tooth in January. South...	Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4
Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in ...	The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4