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 ADVANCED
Snoqualmie Pass
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Make it Meaty 
NE Buttress of Chair Peak 
New York Gully 
Red Mountain-SouthWest Ridge 
Tooth - South Face, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Tooth - South Face 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Charles Hazelhurst and C. G. Morrison - 1916
Season: Summer
Page Views: 7,643
Submitted By: Tits McGee on Mar 17, 2009

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starting the link up of the first two pitches

Parking MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach:
Summer - Hike up the main trail, until a sign designating the start of the Source Lake Overlook trail. Take this trail, which avoids losing elevation, to the valley to the south below the east face of The Tooth. There is a good climbers path with cairns to guide you.

Winter - Hike up the main trail all the way to Source Lake, then turn south in the valley. Hike up the valley until below the east face of The Tooth. Do not follow the summer path, since there is significant avalanche danger there.

The final approach involves scrambling up to the notch one south of Pineapple Pass then contouring around clockwise to get to the start of the climb. A direct scramble up to Pineapple Pass is not recommended, as this is the rappel route. The final portion of the contour around involves some class 3 to 4 scrambling, but it is short and unexposed. Some parties have elected to do a running belay here, but it is not necessary.

Protection 

Light Alpine Rack - up to #3 Camalot


Photos of The Tooth - South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in Mid January 2013
Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in ...
Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13
Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13
Early Morning view of The Tooth in January.  South face route goes up left side of silhouette more or less.
Early Morning view of The Tooth in January. South...
leading up the second pitch - possibly the best moves on the climb
leading up the second pitch - possibly the best mo...
The Tooth
BETA PHOTO: The Tooth
South face is the left side of the Tooth in this photo.
BETA PHOTO: South face is the left side of the Tooth in this p...
View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 viewed from the base.
View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 view...
Half-way up third pitch (looking down).
BETA PHOTO: Half-way up third pitch (looking down).
Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4
Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4
Bret on the last move before the summit
Bret on the last move before the summit
The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4
The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4

Comments on The Tooth - South Face Add Comment
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By Aaron Wait
Aug 12, 2013

Started this climb kind of later in the afternoon and was glad I did. There were like 12 people who had all been bottlenecking for most of the morning.