The Tooth - South Face
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starting the link up of the first two pitches
Summer - Hike up the main trail, until a sign designating the start of the Source Lake Overlook trail. Take this trail, which avoids losing elevation, to the valley to the south below the east face of The Tooth. There is a good climbers path with cairns to guide you.
Winter - Hike up the main trail all the way to Source Lake, then turn south in the valley. Hike up the valley until below the east face of The Tooth. Do not follow the summer path, since there is significant avalanche danger there.
The final approach involves scrambling up to the notch one south of Pineapple Pass then contouring around clockwise to get to the start of the climb. A direct scramble up to Pineapple Pass is not recommended, as this is the rappel route. The final portion of the contour around involves some class 3 to 4 scrambling, but it is short and unexposed. Some parties have elected to do a running belay here, but it is not necessary.
Light Alpine Rack - up to #3 Camalot
Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in ...
Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13
Early Morning view of The Tooth in January. South...
leading up the second pitch - possibly the best mo...
BETA PHOTO: South face is the left side of the Tooth in this p...
View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 view...
BETA PHOTO: Half-way up third pitch (looking down).
Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4
Bret on the last move before the summit
The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4
By Aaron Wait
Aug 12, 2013
Started this climb kind of later in the afternoon and was glad I did. There were like 12 people who had all been bottlenecking for most of the morning.
By Andy Shoemaker
Oct 14, 2014
Spent like 2 solid hours scouring the Source Lake trail for the branch off that the climbers trail takes. Can anyone provide any guidance in finding the climbers trail? We were on the lookout for cairns and any well traveled climbers path, didn't find it. We felt like chumps, since most trip reports say its obvious and easy to find.