Left of the 5.7 Rail Route is a set of discontinuous roofs, the first containing a large, tongue-shaped formation. Climb up through the tongue roof, a roof through a crack, and then into the final dihedral. There is a nice horizontal at the top that takes larger cams.
Head left at the top of the climber's trail about 200 yards. The route is about 20 feet left of the white section of rock.
A set of nuts, a few finger sized cams for the crux, and a few larger cams for the anchor.
There is a large bolt with no hanger at nearly the top odd the dihedral sticking out about 2 inches. Careful not to poke yourself with this eyesore. Does anyone object to its removal, since there is adequate pro nearby and it seriously degrades the quality and safety of the route?
I pulled the hideous bolt out today. Have to go back and repair the hole. S climb is great and maybe PG in the upper dihedral. Bring a small nut or RP to protect the final moves. Larger cams (3"+) make for a solid anchor.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Nov 15, 2012 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
It's easy to get down from this one using the anchor above the Rail Route.