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 ADVANCED
Morrison Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.7 Rail Route T,TR 
Dihedral Route T 
Frozen Fingers (aka Top Rope Route) TR 
Juggmo T,TR 
Morrison Solo T,TR 
Nautilus Cave Pitch, The T,S,TR 
Price For Fire, The S 
Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty) S 
Tongue, The T 
Unknown Slab route TR 
White Crack Route T,TR 
Z is Last, But This is First S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Tongue 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: percious on May 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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First piece, near the bottom.

Description 

Left of the 5.7 Rail Route is a set of discontinuous roofs, the first containing a large, tongue-shaped formation. Climb up through the tongue roof, a roof through a crack, and then into the final dihedral. There is a nice horizontal at the top that takes larger cams.

Location 

Head left at the top of the climber's trail about 200 yards. The route is about 20 feet left of the white section of rock.

Protection 

A set of nuts, a few finger sized cams for the crux, and a few larger cams for the anchor.


Photos of The Tongue Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top.
Near the top.

Comments on The Tongue Add Comment
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 7, 2012

There is a large bolt with no hanger at nearly the top odd the dihedral sticking out about 2 inches. Careful not to poke yourself with this eyesore. Does anyone object to its removal, since there is adequate pro nearby and it seriously degrades the quality and safety of the route?
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Sep 9, 2012

I pulled the hideous bolt out today. Have to go back and repair the hole. S climb is great and maybe PG in the upper dihedral. Bring a small nut or RP to protect the final moves. Larger cams (3"+) make for a solid anchor.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 15, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's easy to get down from this one using the anchor above the Rail Route.