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Toad, The T 

The Toad 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3

Type:  Trad, Aid, 16 pitches, 2000', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 [details]
FA: Jeff Lowe & Cactus Bryan, June 1971
Page Views: 1,503
Submitted By: bsmoot on Apr 26, 2009

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1. Brown Eyed Girl VI 5.8 A3+ Klaus Schock & Joe...

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


At the time of this historic ascent, it was one of the biggest, steepest and most continuous sandstone walls ever climbed. Incredibly the first ascent took only 3 days...far ahead of it's time considering the gear and the unknown nature of climbing on sandstone.

Jeffs description: "Climb up cracks and dihedrals for 12 pitches until about 100' below a very large overhang. Pendulum left from a bolt and enter the upper crack system. Follow this to the left of the overhang, then ascend to a broken area with trees. One pitch above this broken area, leave the main crack and chimney system and enter cracks formed by large flakes on the right. This flake system and the cracks above lead to the final overhanging pitch"

Descent: "Walk off the back of the summit for a short way, then scramble down (east) into a large couloir which forms the left hand edge of the face. 7 rappels and more scrambling lead to the ground."


See photo


Standard wall rack including pitons. Some extra thin pins

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