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Toad, The T 

The Toad 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 16 pitches, 2000', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 [details]
FA: Jeff Lowe & Cactus Bryan, June 1971
Page Views: 1,104
Submitted By: bsmoot on Apr 26, 2009

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Description 

At the time of this historic ascent, it was one of the biggest, steepest and most continuous sandstone walls ever climbed. Incredibly the first ascent took only 3 days...far ahead of it's time considering the gear and the unknown nature of climbing on sandstone.

Jeffs description: "Climb up cracks and dihedrals for 12 pitches until about 100' below a very large overhang. Pendulum left from a bolt and enter the upper crack system. Follow this to the left of the overhang, then ascend to a broken area with trees. One pitch above this broken area, leave the main crack and chimney system and enter cracks formed by large flakes on the right. This flake system and the cracks above lead to the final overhanging pitch"

Descent: "Walk off the back of the summit for a short way, then scramble down (east) into a large couloir which forms the left hand edge of the face. 7 rappels and more scrambling lead to the ground."


Location 

See photo

Protection 

Standard wall rack including pitons. Some extra thin pins


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