The Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route)
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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11b/c [details]|
|FA: ||Dana Ernst, Jonas D'Andrea, Yvonne D'Andrea|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||All year|
|Submitted By: ||Dana Ernst on Sep 9, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: The Titleist (aka Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route...
This route was put up in honor of our friend Alicia Golembeski, who was killed on 7.22.06 while hiking near Great Sand Dunes National Monument. We miss her dearly! Alicia was an avid golfer, and on the first day that we worked on the route, we found a Titleist golf ball in the woods while walking to the top of the Wall of Winter Warmth. Alicia regularly wore a Titleist visor and would only play with Titleist golf balls. Hence the name.
"The Titleist" climbs up the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth in 2 pitches. The climb starts between the routes "Direct" and "Regular Route", climbs straight up to and through a V-notch in the roof above, and then climbs the slab between "Direct" and "Right Side." Here are the details.
Pitch 1 (5.11, 100 feet, gear and bolts): The route starts on "Regular Route." Climb the first 20 feet or so of that route (or traverse in from the right). At the first ledge of "Regular Route" there is a small bush. From here, climb up a overhanging tooth (see photos), and STAY RIGHT on the slab above (don't go left on easy terrain or you'll have difficulty coming back). Clip 2 bolts on the right edge of the slab, then easy climbing leads to a small roof. Place small gear under the roof, pull the roof, and climb up past 2 more bolts into a shallow seam. Don't get suckered left here. Place small gear in the seam, and then head up to the right edge of the next roof. To get to the right edge of this roof, either climb straight up the seam (a little dirty and hard) or step right on easy terrain and then traverse back left to the right edge of the roof. If going the easy way (which is what we did on the FFA), it may be difficult to see the next bolt, which is a foot above the lip of the roof, so don't climb too high. Once the bolt is clipped, pull around the right edge of the roof. Next, head straight up towards the giant V-notch roof (easy terrain, but may feel a bit run out). Place small gear in the crack that turns into the V-notch. Take a deep breath, and reach out to the left side of the V-notch, poke your head over, and look for a bolt to the left (just over the lip; you can't see it right away, but it's exactly where you want it). Clip the bolt, and then, as gracefully as possible, mantel over the roof (crux) and climb up to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is difficult to aid and a few have said that 5.11- is a sandbag...give it a go and you decide.
Pitch 2 (5.10-, 90 feet, 1 piece of gear and bolts): Head up and left to a flake and place small gear. Mantel up and over the flake and then step right to clip a bolt. Climb STRAIGHT UP from here, grabbing cool jugs, clipping a few bolts as you go. At several points on this pitch, it would be easy to climb left or right to one of the other crack routes, but no bolt is any where near the cracks. Avoid temptation to stray from the bolt line. Eventually, the jugs disappear. At this point, climb up to a horizontal row of edges. Traverse slightly left (or go straight up) and eventually layback the small arete that forms the right edge of the route "Direct." If you wish, place a #0.75 Camalot in the crack after the arete disappears, and then step back right onto the slab. Climb up past 2 more bolts and eventually up to a 2 bolt anchor. The goal for this pitch was to stay as far away from "Direct" and "Right Side" as possible. Only at one point would avoiding the left crack route be contrived. This is the place where you layback the arete. The rating of this pitch is intended to be more consistent with the other ratings on the wall.
From the top of pitch 2, either rap the route, or climb a 3rd easy pitch (5.4, gear) to the top of the wall. If you go to the top of the wall and wish to return to the bottom, please don't descend the gully to the right of the Wall of Winter Warmth. Hikers, fishermen, and sunbathers hang out at the bottom of this gully and it is easy to send rather large blocks down. A better descent would be to scramble down the 4th class ramp on the left side of the wall that ends at the large tree at the top of the first pitch of "Left Side". Rap from the tree. This option is faster anyway.
"The Titleist" climbs straight up the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth. The climb is between "Direct" on the left and "Regular Route" and "Right Side" on the right. Start on "Regular Route" and veer left at the overhanging tooth after 20 feet or so. The crux of the route tackles the giant V-notch in the roof above.
There are 2 approaches to the Wall of Winter Warmth.
1. Park at Upper Dream Canyon and then traverse towards the top of the wall by avoiding private property. Eventually, you will pick up a trail. Recently, there was a cairn with a stick in it along this trail. At this cairn, head downhill toward the top of the Berlin Wall and the (climber's) left side of the WWW. Rack up and scramble down the 4th class ledge system to a large tree that marks the end of pitch 1 of "Left Side." Rap from the tree and walk right toward another large tree. If you know where you are going, this takes 15 minutes.
2. Park at Lower Boulder Falls and teleport yourself to the base of the WWW.
The 1st pitch has 6 bolts and requires several pieces of gear, mostly small Aliens. The 2nd pitch has 7 bolts and requires a couple of small to medium pieces of gear. Doubles of blue through yellow Aliens and Camalots up to a #3 should make you happy. If you skip the start of "Regular Route" by traversing in from the right, you can leave the #2 and #3 Camalots in your pack.
|Photos of The Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route) Slideshow
Jonas and Dana holding the Titleist golf ball we f...
This photo shows Dana leading the start of the rou...
Jonas following the 1st pitch.
Dana pulling the V-notch on the FFA.
Jonas on the 2nd pitch.
Yvonne following the 2nd pitch.
Ron Olsen stretching to place gear in the V-notch ...
Jonas D'Andrea at the start of the first pitch. T...
Jonas D'Andrea reaching for the lip of the roof.
Yvonne D'Andrea at a tricky move left on the first...
Yvonne D'Andrea high-stepping on the first pitch.
Yvonne at the start of the 5.11 roof.
Yvonne at the lip.
Yvonne starting to crank.
Yvonne cutting loose.
Dominik Kulakowski climbing the crux on "The Title...
Jonas and Yvonne D'Andrea on the third pitch, with...
|Comments on The Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route)
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2006
Excellent climbing, but you'd better be a solid 5.11 leader before heading up on this route; not a good one to push your limits. I'm not a solid 5.11 leader, and I got a) scared and b) spanked.
We rapped the route and I pre-placed draws on all the bolts on the first pitch, and I still had trouble finding some of them. There are several choices for the climbing line; I took what I thought was the path of least resistance, and I found myself well left or right of the bolts several times. Some of the bolts are just above roofs and are hard to see from below.
Some of the pro is small, hard to find, and hard to place. At one point I had to look around a little corner to the right to find a small slot for a blue Alien to protect a 5.9-5.10 slab move. At the roof, I had to stretch up to place a blue/green hybrid Alien (a green would probably have worked) in the bottom of the V-notch, and then make an awkward clip.
I was mentally and physically thrashed at this point and lowered off. I probably would have gotten toasted trying to clear the roof had I continued. As Dana points out, the roof move is hard to aid; it's a mantel and there's no finishing jug.
I was wishing for about 3 or 4 more bolts on the pitch (OK, I'm a wuss): one several feet left of the hidden blue Alien placement, one on the 5.6-5.7 runout move to the roof, and one under the roof, about 4' left of the V-notch. And another at the top of a right-facing corner with guano (the bolt was out on the slab to the left). But if you're a solid 5.11 leader, you'd probably feel the extra bolts weren't necessary.
The second pitch looked like fun, knobby face climbing at a much easier grade than the first pitch (I didn't climb it). I'll have to go back, rap down, and do it (and maybe top-rope the first pitch).
Thanks to Dana, Jonas, and Yvonne for their hard work putting in this quality line; I just wish I was a better climber so I could have enjoyed it a little more.
|By Dana Ernst|
Nov 25, 2006
We've bumped the rating up to 5.11 from 5.11-. Also, we've bumped the rating of the 2nd pitch up to 5.10- from 5.9. Everyone I know that has climbed the route, thought that it was harder than its original rating. The original rating was an attempt to be more consistent with the ratings on the rest of the wall and to battle grade inflation. There are routes up canyon rated 5.11d that are probably easier than this route. In addition, we've decided to give the route a PG13 rating. There are a few places on this route where you are doing solid 5.10 moves a bit above small gear or a bolt.
The last bolt below the big roof on the 1st pitch is poorly located. It is hard to see and not very useful. We'll go back in the spring and move this bolt. Depending on where we move it to, we may add another above or below the current location of this bolt. However, it'll do just fine for now.
I think that this route is excellent, but it has one serious weakness. There are a couple of places on both pitches where you have to fight the temptation to wander onto nearby routes and easier terrain. The position on this route is magnificent.
You can also hit the upper pitches of "Direct" and "Right Side" from the anchors at the top of pitch one. These are excellent crack pitches. In particular, this is a much better way to get to the 2nd pitch of "Right Side"...no animal feces to battle through.
|By Seth Finkelstein|
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c PG13
Great route - technical in spots and thuggish in others. Definitely thought provoking and worthwhile. The first pitch has some difficult slab moves - I broke the crystal at the fourth bolt. The area between the third and fourth bolts seemed to have some crumbly texture, a lot of which came off under my feet. As the route continues to clean up it's sure to improve (and possibly get harder). Be careful with the plate under the crux roof, it's ready to pitch, though it has a great jug... too bad. The roof move is pretty hard to get onsight but really cool. The second pitch is pure fun, I think 10- is a fair grade. I think the route protects pretty well. Certainly not overbolted, but perfectly safe. BC needs some more bolting like this... the general overbolting in the canyon is making me soft. Overall it's a great route!
D - my compliments... Not only did you eye an excellent route, but you can kick some mean linear algebra knowledge. Here's one for you - does the crack below the second roof span the range of Camalots; that is, is the crack a linear combination of the cams on my rack? Cheers!