Type: | Trad, Aid, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jason keith and Sam Lightner Jr (?) |
Page Views: | 1,406 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on May 25, 2008 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route begins on the north west side of the tower above the road. Find an easier way up through the lower cliffs to get to the base.
Pitch 1 = a bolt ladder with a few moves of C1 in the crack gets you to a hanging belay.
Pitch 2 = a long crack of varying size, but focussed on blue tcu's Conceivably, you could link p2 and p3, but we broke it up as we were running out of gear. Pitch 3 has some sandy free moves, so you wanna mitigate the rope drag. Its gonna be pretty hard to carry all that gear. We belayed off a drilled angle and a couple of friends about 80 feet up and just below the roof. This probably goes at 5.11, but we were pulling on our gear.
Pitch 3. From the hanging stance, we free climbed, clipping a couple bolts, on sandy and weak rock. Lots of slopey, sandy moves. Its only like 5.9 or 10a, but it is heady. After 50 or 60 feet belay from a good anchor on the ledge.
Pitch 4 = We climbed to the summit, going around the top to the east side. There is an old anchor over there. However, its like 5.4 so we just climbed it (minimal gear) and then reversed it. There is no anchor on the absolute summit as it is rotten.
From top of pitch 3, rap to pitch 1. Two 70's would actually reach the ground from here, but not two 60's.
Pitch 1 = a bolt ladder with a few moves of C1 in the crack gets you to a hanging belay.
Pitch 2 = a long crack of varying size, but focussed on blue tcu's Conceivably, you could link p2 and p3, but we broke it up as we were running out of gear. Pitch 3 has some sandy free moves, so you wanna mitigate the rope drag. Its gonna be pretty hard to carry all that gear. We belayed off a drilled angle and a couple of friends about 80 feet up and just below the roof. This probably goes at 5.11, but we were pulling on our gear.
Pitch 3. From the hanging stance, we free climbed, clipping a couple bolts, on sandy and weak rock. Lots of slopey, sandy moves. Its only like 5.9 or 10a, but it is heady. After 50 or 60 feet belay from a good anchor on the ledge.
Pitch 4 = We climbed to the summit, going around the top to the east side. There is an old anchor over there. However, its like 5.4 so we just climbed it (minimal gear) and then reversed it. There is no anchor on the absolute summit as it is rotten.
From top of pitch 3, rap to pitch 1. Two 70's would actually reach the ground from here, but not two 60's.
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