|Longs Canyon Tower
The route begins on the north west side of the tower above the road. Find an easier way up through the lower cliffs to get to the base.
Pitch 1 = a bolt ladder with a few moves of C1 in the crack gets you to a hanging belay.
Pitch 2 = a long crack of varying size, but focussed on blue tcu's Conceivably, you could link p2 and p3, but we broke it up as we were running out of gear. Pitch 3 has some sandy free moves, so you wanna mitigate the rope drag. Its gonna be pretty hard to carry all that gear. We belayed off a drilled angle and a couple of friends about 80 feet up and just below the roof. This probably goes at 5.11, but we were pulling on our gear.
Pitch 3. From the hanging stance, we free climbed, clipping a couple bolts, on sandy and weak rock. Lots of slopey, sandy moves. Its only like 5.9 or 10a, but it is heady. After 50 or 60 feet belay from a good anchor on the ledge.
Pitch 4 = We climbed to the summit, going around the top to the east side. There is an old anchor over there. However, its like 5.4 so we just climbed it (minimal gear) and then reversed it. There is no anchor on the absolute summit as it is rotten.
From top of pitch 3, rap to pitch 1. Two 70's would actually reach the ground from here, but not two 60's.
Northwest face of the tower right above the road.
Doubles of each cam with a lot of .5 and .4 cams... a lot being like 6. A set of nuts, two sixties, lots of slings and spare biners.
|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
May 25, 2008
Here is the deal with this...
Jason and I saw an anchor about 60 feet up on this tower. We decided to try the route... its a really solid bolt ladder. However, when we go on the second pitch we saw no sign that anyone had ever been there. Lots of loose rock needed to be cleaned away, no fixed anchors (unlike the first pitch), and generally soft and loose up high. We needed a couple of fixed pieces to do it. We both figure there are lots of climbers out there who could have climbed the route without our fixed gear, but it would have been out of character with the way the first pitch was done... so we guessed that the route had been abandoned after the first pitch.
If one of you did this thing years ago, good for you... give me the info and I'll change the F.A> stuff in here. However, we had to speculate that no one had been all the way up it due to the looseness, the lack of any fixed gear, and the lack of a rap station coming back to the top of the first pitch. Never the less, the first pitch was most definately climbed by someone other than us.