The line is obvious. Ascend up fifty feet of less than vertical but often thin ice to a ledge, then breeze up some steps to a short vertical section that climbs past a rock horn, and then climb up the last short section to the top. The crux is either the odd-angled climbing sometimes needed to get around the rock horn on the second tier or the thinness of ice on the lower section.
If in thick, this is a great beginner route. If thin, which it often is, it can be sketchy.
One or two screws for the lower section and one or two for the crux should do you. Short screws are the rule, have I mentioned that it is often thin? It’s also a great solo but take a rope to rap, the scramble down is a pain.
No bolts and little to no rock pro on this wall.
Use the tree at the top to anchor and rappel. Bring slings and a 70m rope is a must.
Taking in the view after topping out.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 29, 2009
's not in.
|By Erik Bonnett|
From: Nevada City, CA
Jan 24, 2011
I climbed this route in December after a very cold spell. Even still, the bottom section was thin but good climbing. The top held plenty of ice. I think a small selection or rock gear could make it a good mixed lead in these conditions (I TRed). As soon as the sun came out, exfoliation began in earnest. Get there early and cold!
| || Lower section of Mayhem Gulch. |