The Ticket  WI2-3

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Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  WI2-3 [details] FA:  Brian Nelson and Dylan Waller, 2007 Season:  winter, cloudy and cold only Submitted By:  Dylan Waller on Feb 3, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The route covered in a dusting of snow.

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This area is NOT closed Dec. 1 – Jan. 31. MORE INFO >>> This area is posted as NO LONGER “closed for hunting” Dec. 1 – Jan. 31 as confirmed by a Jefferson County Open Space ranger in March 2011. As of Dec. 2011, the parking area is closed here. The signage indicates that the Mayhem Gulch Trail and Centennial Dome are closed due to hunting. According to a JeffCo ranger, the access to the ice climb is open. You will have to figure out legal parking which may be further away. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The line is obvious. Ascend up fifty feet of less than vertical but often thin ice to a ledge, then breeze up some steps to a short vertical section that climbs past a rock horn, and then climb up the last short section to the top. The crux is either the odd-angled climbing sometimes needed to get around the rock horn on the second tier or the thinness of ice on the lower section.

If in thick, this is a great beginner route. If thin, which it often is, it can be sketchy.

Protection 

One or two screws for the lower section and one or two for the crux should do you. Short screws are the rule, have I mentioned that it is often thin? It’s also a great solo but take a rope to rap, the scramble down is a pain.
No bolts and little to no rock pro on this wall.
Use the tree at the top to anchor and rappel. Bring slings and a 70m rope is a must.

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Taking in the view after topping out.

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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Dec 29, 2009

's not in.

By Erik Bonnett From: Eugene, OR Jan 24, 2011

I climbed this route in December after a very cold spell. Even still, the bottom section was thin but good climbing. The top held plenty of ice. I think a small selection or rock gear could make it a good mixed lead in these conditions (I TRed). As soon as the sun came out, exfoliation began in earnest. Get there early and cold! Lower section of Mayhem Gulch. Submitted By: Erik Bonnett on Jan 24, 2011