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Bryan Ferris finishing up The Thumb.
This climb uses a variety of powerful sloping side pulls, a few crimps and pinches. The technical crux is probably between bolts 2-4, but keeping it together until you reach the great jugs after the 5th bolt isn't easy.
Obvious sport route just right of The Thumb Aid Climb.
5 bolts to fixed anchor. Helps with drag to sling out anchor. Can be top roped by climbing the backside.
By Neal Harder
Dec 3, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
If top-roping I recommend clipping the climber's rope to the last bolt to keep it from sliding over an edge when the climber falls, or use very long slings to extend the anchor point past the edge.
While this climb is relatively short, it is powerful and has no rests- it is full value. The crux is at the 4th bolt but all the moves leading up to it will tax you.
The SMC hangers on the lead bolts are the newer stainless steel ones, not the ones that have a reputation for breaking.