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Punta Delle Cinque Dita
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Thumb, The T 

The Thumb 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Hans Huter, Gustav Jahn, Erwin Merlet. 1917
Season: Summer
Page Views: 598
Submitted By: eDixon on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This spire is spectacular - from any angle.

Description 

Pitch 1 - Face climb up to the large scree covered ledge.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right along the ledge to the base of the ridge.

Pitch 3 - Face climb up with good holds to a stance on a smaller ledge.

Pitch 4 - Face climb up to a shoulder on the ridge near some blocks.

Pitch 5 - Leave the ledge and follow a broken crack system up to a small ledge.

Pitch 6 - Face climb up on good holds to another small ledge.

Pitch 7 - Face climb up on more exposed terrain.

Pitch 8 - More face climbing up along the ridge.

Pitch 9 - Easy face climbing on good holds to the top of "The Thumb".

Descent - Downclimb towards the notch. Make two rappels from ring bots. Then scramble down the gully and back to Sella Pass Hut.

Location 

The route ascends the south-east side of Punta Delle Cinque Dita. It is easily seen from the road.

Protection 

There are a number of pins in place. Maybe a light set of nuts.


Photos of The Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
Several parties at the start of the Thumb Route (Daumenkante).
Several parties at the start of the Thumb Route (D...
The right skyline delineates the upper portion of the Thumb Route, known to Germanic climbers as the "Daumenkante." (Thumb arête)
BETA PHOTO: The right skyline delineates the upper portion of ...
The large scree covered ledge comprises pitch 2, with some scrambling or easy roped climbing to reach the skyline ridge.
The large scree covered ledge comprises pitch 2, w...
Temperature was far from ideal, and second party retreated. Weather was also deteriorating rapidly.
Temperature was far from ideal, and second party r...
Climbers silhouetted on the steepening arête.
Climbers silhouetted on the steepening arête.
Near maximum telephoto from Sella Pass highway. Day was too hazy to use more magnification. Route follows the Righthand skyline for the great part of the time.
Near maximum telephoto from Sella Pass highway. Da...

Comments on The Thumb Add Comment
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By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Dec 2, 2013

The 'Thumb' on Funffingerspitzen is one of the best of the short moderate Dolomite climbs. You can take the lift to the Demetz Hut for a few Euros. The approach is literally five minutes. I found the climb to be 9 pitches with 6 rappels. Steep and exposed but at a moderate level (5.6/5.7) if you stay right on the edge. I took a light 7mm, 150’ line for the rappels. The first two are obvious from the summit south. In the notch at the base of the second rap, follow a line of polished rock and fixed pins around the side (heading east) of the 'Thumb'. After this easy 5th class pitch, follow carins down and back to the north until you find a big carin at the edge of a steep wall. Four 25m raps place you at about the same spot you changed shoes. This is right on top of the Demetz Hut. Lunch and the lift down to the car! This is a great solo if you’re into it (one to two hours). For a roped team it should be about 3 hours. If you go in the afternoon, you might have the route to yourself. Clean, solid and exposed rock – the best!
By Rodger Raubach
6 days ago

This is a spectacular and popular route, but not a good place to be when the weather is anything less than optimal.