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The Thumb

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job 
Center Slot 
Confines of Power 
Descent Route 
Epic Sushi Party 
Konichiwa 
Left Center 
Mind Over Matter 
Never Mind, It Doesn't Matter 
North Overhangs 
Opposable Distraction 
Pigeon Perch 
Pixie, The 
Rest in Peace 
Right Center 
Rooftop Rodeo 
South Ridge of the Thumb 
Sucker Punch 
Thumb Up My Arse 
Thumb's Up 
Uphill Cracks 
Vapor Trail 
Zig Arete 

The Thumb 


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Elevation: 8,400'
Location: 40.357, -105.5167 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,687
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nate Christiansen on Sep 16, 2006
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Kira, 10, on one of the multiple TRs on the South ...

Description 

The Thumb and Needle are the 2 more popular crags on top of Prospect Mountain. The routes on The Thumb vary from 5.0 to 5.12a. The Thumb is short (2 pitches at the very most) but offer excellent exposure to the town of Estes Park.

The Thumb has a one rope rappel for the summiter that is off of the west side from slings from a good well-marked chockstone. There is another rappel involving 2 one rope rappels down the north face.

Eds. The original description for The Thumb & The Needle was split for clarity.


Getting There 

The Thumb and the Needle lie on top of Prospect Mountain and the eaisest way to get there is to drive either from CO Highway 7, leaving town until you reach Peak View drive. Take PVD until you see a gold sign on your right that says "Prospect Highlands". This is Curry. Take that sharp right turn. Continue up this short road that will eventually turn into gravel and park at the cropping just short of the gate. Please do not attempt to park in the way of the landowners. The trail starts just up the gully and goes for an enjoyable yet steep 5 min. approach. The first rock you will see is the Needle. Less than 100 yards further uphill is The Thumb. The Thimble is a sliver of rock lying just E of The Thumb.


Descent 

To descend the Thumb, you can find a set of slings just below the level of the summit on the West Face. Rappel 95 ft to the ground. You can also descend with a 60m single rope by rappeling off the North Face TWICE. You can also spiral down the descent climb, 5.2 heading SW and following the path of least resistance.


L->R: 

Per Nathan Welton:

East Face
A. Left Center, 8+, 1p, 80', gear.
B. Brace Y'Self, 10, 1p, 95', gear, pins, & bolts.
C. Right Center, 7 PG-13, 1p, 180', gear.
D. Center Slot, 8, 2p, 180', gear.
E. Thumb's Up, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
F. Thumb Up My Arse, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
GH. Epic Sushi Party, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Zig Arete, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
I1. Confines of Power, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
I2. Vapor Trail, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
J1. Mind over Matter, 12-, 1p, 140', gear.
J2. Never Mind It Does't Matter, 11, 2p, 140', gear.
J3. North Overhangs aka North Roof, 9-, 2p, 220', gear.
K. Sucker Punch, 12, 1p, TR.
L. The Pixie, 12, 1p, 65', bolts.
M. Konichiwa, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
N. Pigeon Perch, 9, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
O. Rooftop Rodeo, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
P. Uphill Cracks, 7, 1p, 90', gear.
Q. Opposable Distraction, 11+, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
R. Rest in Peace, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
S. West Face.

South Face
T. Unknown, 8, 1p, 70', TR.
U. Unknown, 7, 1p, 70', TR.
V. Unknown, 6, 1p, 70', TR.
W. Unknown, 5, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
X. Unknown, 2, 1p, 70', gear.
Y. Descent Route, 4, 2p, 200', gear.
Z. South Ridge of the Thumb, 3 R, 2p, gear.

Also note that you can descend off the northwest face in a single 30m rap from the chains atop Rest in Peace.


23 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Thumb:
North Overhangs   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Zig Arete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Epic Sushi Party   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Thumb Up My Arse   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Thumb

Featured Route For The Thumb
The ramp that begins on the east and leads to the ledge on the west of the Thumb.

Descent Route 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : The Thumb
The ramp is narrow initially, but the climbing is always easy. From the south side to the west side, you are walking on a wide ledge. Crux is the final move to the top which is about 5.6....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
View of Long's Peak and Estes Park from the top of The Thumb.  The haze is from the huge fire in NE Arizona.
View of Long's Peak and Estes Park from the top of...
Erin, 4, on one of the multiple TRs on the South face.
Erin, 4, on one of the multiple TRs on the South f...
SE Face of the Thumb. Nice view of school slabs & South Ridge of the Thumb route.
BETA PHOTO: SE Face of the Thumb. Nice view of school slabs & ...
Jaclyn, 8, soaking up the sun on a South face TR.
Jaclyn, 8, soaking up the sun on a South face TR.
Beta photo for the uphill part of the Thumb.
Beta photo for the uphill part of the Thumb.
Comments on The Thumb Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Dubya
Sep 7, 2012

According to a local guide I talked to up there today, there are 2 new lines bolted this summer just to the right as the trail meets The Thumb. He said there was a ".10 and an .11". I led, on-sighted both routes, and agree with the general assessment of the grades. The route on the left is definitely easier with just a few moves of 9+ or 10- and 6 or 7 bolts to chain anchors if I remember correctly. The route on the right starts with a few gear placements (small cams and an old TCU you can clip) and then fairly sustained climbing through 4 bolts to a 10+/11- crux going to the last bolt. The rock on this route is a little loose in places, so be aware, otherwise really fun on both! Does someone want to confirm these grades, add a name, etc?

By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 9, 2013

The names and grades those two routes have been confirmed with the FA, local guide Eli Helmuth, and added to the database. They are Thumbs Up, 5.10- and Thumb Up My Arse, 5.10+ or perhaps 5.11-. Time will tell as consensus grows.

Also note that you can descend off the northwest face in a single 30m rap from the chains atop Rest in Peace.